Fauquier County vintner positions himself for career shift
Tracking Chris Pearmund down can be a challenge. The man is seemingly everywhere as he expands his wine realm.
Case in point: This writer recently placed a call to the wine maven and after the eighth ring heard him answer with a groggy, “Hello?”
Did I catch him at a bad time? “No, no, it’s four o’clock,” he responded. Indeed, it was exactly 4:05 p. m. “Not here. It’s four in the morning. I’m in Beijing.”
Ooops. Sorry about that.
But the ill-timed call was not surprising. The peripatetic wine merchant is constantly on the move as he consults, buys or sells wineries at a brisk pace.
His latest move is placing his original business, Pearmund Cellars, on the market. The asking price is $5 million. The property includes his home, twenty-five acres of land—fifteen in productive Chardonnay vines—and the winery. He has tasked two real estate agencies with extensive experience in the Virginia wine trade to find a buyer.
And if the new owner wishes to retain Pearmund as a consultant, he will oblige.
In January, Pearmund sold a seventy-five percent interest in his Winery at La Grange in Haymarket to a major Chinese firm, Beida Jade Bird. “The sale was valued at $5.6 million and I retained 25% ownership. I currently run the operation as the managing partner,” he said.
Pearmund’s quest is to advance the Virginia wine trade beyond the state’s borders and believes China is one of the lucrative markets. But he’s not limiting himself to just Virginia wine.
“There is a growing class of wealthy Chinese who are interested in an upscale lifestyle, including wine. Annual per capita consumption in China is less than one liter. Europe enjoys a 35 liter consumption rate and the US an eight liter. China has a huge potential for growth,” he says.
To underscore his point, he recently sold a container of Washington state wine—14,400 bottles—to a wealthy Chinese businessman who intends to gift a bottle to each of his employees. Pearmund will ship the wine with a customized corporate label affixed.
Chris Pearmund
Why his involvement in wine other than from Virginia? “I’d love to sell more Virginia product overseas but, frankly, there’s not enough of it. Over the last several years there’s been a five-fold increase in wineries in the state but only a two-fold growth increase in productive vineyards. There’s a looming shortage of fruit with a commensurate opportunity for growers,” he explains.
In the interim, Pearmund will shift gears and focus on both domestic and international sales of Virginia and other wines, primarily those from Washington State, where he has close ties with some of its industry leaders.
In addition, Beida Jade Bird has hired him as its consultant and spokesperson. The multi-billion dollar corporation is a high technology enterprise focused on the production of software and advanced technologies and has made a commitment to pursuing the wine trade. “The firm is eager to advance their wine business but needs resources to make that happen. I’ll be providing my expertise,” he says.
Pearmund explains his latest ventures were driven largely by Lyme disease he contracted two years ago. “I lost a year of productive work. Lyme robs you of both physical and emotional energy. I pretty much turned the operations of my wineries over to my senior staff, Melissa Stephan and DJ Leffin. They performed beautifully. When I began to recover my strength, I realized I didn’t have to manage on a day to day basis. It reduced my stress and opened doors to new projects,” he says.
One of those projects was attending the fifth annual wine show in Beijing where he was awakened by an inquisitive reporter. “It’s an amazing scene here. There are hundreds of wineries from around the globe pouring thousands of wines for Chinese buyers. Only five are from the US, and only one from Virginia—me,” he says.
With his vision extending well beyond the borders of the Old Dominion, will Pearmund be leaving the area? “I have no intention of moving out of Fauquier County. I’ve lived here since ‘84 and love the area and its people.”
By moving into international business, the former substitute school teacher and native from Great Britain is paralleling his father’s career, who is a senior vice president for a world banking association. “Not many people know my family is exceptionally successful. My father has been to China dozens of times over the last several decades. He’s pleased to see me make this move, especially with my focus on China,” he says.
And as for his health? “I’m almost fully recovered from the Lyme attack. I’ve been walking five miles a day here in Beijing, my diet is nutritionally sound and I’m still enjoying wine daily. I’m eager to see what I can accomplish in this new arena.”
Published in the April 27, 2012 edition of the Fauquier-Times Democrat.
Philip Carter Winery Vineyards
The Wine Guy Adds Brewer to His Resume
Its ten o’clock on a late September evening as I slip down to my dark wine cellar to observe white wines in late-stage fermentation.
As I shine a beam of light across the neck of a carboy, I stand in awe. A gazillion bubbles race up the sides and into the top of the six gallon glass jug. The air lock bubbles away. The exuberance of primeval fermentation transfixes me.
Boiling the wort
Fermentation has been used by man for thousands of years to make bread, cheese, yogurt, pickles, beer and wine. Essentially the action converts a carbohydrate such as sugar into an acid or alcohol. Eons ago earliest man harnessed this natural process to produce foods and beverages near to his heart. I relate to my ancestors’ ardor for the magic-like transformative process.
For eight years I have been a home winemaker. I’ve produced over 4,000 bottles of wine in my humble wine cellar. It’s an endeavor framed by challenge and satisfaction. To take fruit from the field and produce a libation that satisfies both body and spirit is rewarding. And it’s fun.
For a like period of time I have also been a home bread maker and its obvious derivative, pizza maker. My children and their families are known to clamor, “Dad, make your pizza when we come over tonight.” Not a problem.
Enter beer. Over the last two years, I have been a member of a local hiking club called Boots ‘n Beer. Its motto is “A drinking club with a hiking problem.” The group roams the trails of nearby Shenandoah National Park monthly. At the end of each ramble, we adjourn to a local pub to hoist a pint or two and have dinner.
While wine is my passion, the pub visits ignited an interest in microbrewed beers: Amber ale, Stout, Pilsner, India pale ale, American wheat, Bock, Porter, Vienna lager…the list is endless. I recognized a parallel between wine and beer. Both possess an incredible scope of styles and flavors. And both are produced by fermentation.
One reason for my previous low interest in beer was the bland and watery taste of most popular brands. Leading beer makers today produce light lagers that appeal to the widest audience. Unfortunately for me, they are boring; a grievous sin when it comes to alcohol consumption. Give me body, depth, complexity and variety over easy drinking any day.
Why Light Beers
Let’s digress a moment to better understand why Americans consume such large amounts of uninteresting beer. Granted, it’s refreshing. And given its lower alcohol content, it can be consumed in larger quantities. But volume consumption is not my thing. Flavor appreciation is.
The state of current consumption tracks back to the repeal of prohibition in 1933. After thirteen years of the “Noble Experiment”, only a few major breweries were still operating; they had survived by producing malted products for the food industry. Thousands of small brewers had long gone out of business and their equipment fallen into disuse.
After Repeal, the major breweries sought to produce a product appealing to the largest audience possible, including women. When World War II began, a significant percentage of the male population were overseas defending freedom, leaving women to run the factories and calling the shots on what type of beer they preferred. The production of light and innocuous beer exploded. When the men returned, the pattern was established for easy drinking lagers; think Bud, Coors and Miller type beers.
Further abetting the decline of interesting beer was an oversight in repealing prohibition that did not permit home beermaking. Not until 1979 was the error corrected and homebrewers emerged as a force. In the ensuing three decades these talented—mostly men—created the microbrew market. Today, some 2,000 craft breweries are operating throughout the country and they are growing faster than the major producers; most are run by former home brewers. The movement is analogous to the dramatic increase in small wineries being run by previous home winemakers.
Homebrewing
Once the beer making bug bit, I jumped in full force. I purchased the equipment I needed such as a brew pot, bottling pail, capper and beer bottles. Other items such as a hydrometer and carboy came from my winemaking supplies. Making beer is not difficult but close attention to cleanliness is paramount. Fresh brewed beer is highly susceptible to bacterial infection. Cleanliness is next to beeriness.
To date I have brewed six different styles: Amber ale, American wheat, Oatmeal stout,Vienna lager,India pale ale, and Rye pale ale. Two more versions of ale are in the offing. In the months ahead, I will share my experiences in producing fresh, delicious and healthful homebrewed beer.
“Filled with mingled cream and amber I will drain that glass again. Such hilarious visions clamber through the chambers of my brain—quaintest thoughts—queerest fancies come to life and fade away; who cares how time advances? I am drinking ale today.” Edgar Allan Poe
Author of New Wine Book Muses on Virginia’s Industry
Richard G. Leahy grew up in a Foreign Service family and was exposed to European wine and food culture at a young age. Being a natural raconteur, he can spellbind a person with tales from his colorful life.
One fascinating story involves a trip on the Orient Express at the age of 15 with a buddy that resulted in both being tossed off the train because of passport issues. The duo then grabbed a series of freight trains and arrived safely at the Black Sea eighteen hours later.
“I particularly remember that adventure because the next day we had dinner on the Danube. Two teenagers with access to unlimited wine soon turned the repast into a smashing good time. It was an early object lesson in moderation in all things,” he recalls smiling.
Fortunately, moderation did not inform Leahy’s work ethic and sense of wonder. After recovering from his first wine dinner, he went on to become a world traveler, earning a Masters Degree and doing stints as a hospital administrator, educator, wine steward & judge, wine journalist, home winemaker, and producer of winery trade shows. His latest trade show was the successful Eastern Winery Exposition held March 7 & 8 of this year in Lancaster, PA.
Recently, I caught up with this Renaissance Man to discuss his latest book, Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia.
Richard Leahy
So how did the idea for the book come about?
I’d been thinking about a treatise devoted to Virginia wine for sometime. In the 1990s, I was Mid-Atlantic regional editor for the Oxford Companion to Wine and had the honor of working with its author Jancis Robinson. Then last year, Carlo Devito, a noted wine journalist and publisher, asked me to pen a book on Virginia as a follow up to another author’s work on the Finger Lakes region. My desire to write a book was fulfilled with an actual request and the project took shape.
You travelled extensively throughout the state to gather portraits of proprietors and winemakers. How long did it take to write the book?
Negotiations with the publisher extended over several months but when it came time to start writing, I learned I had somewhat over a month to complete the volume. It resulted in a whirlwind tour of the Old Dominion that worked in my favor. I devoted myself full time to travelling and writing. It was fun. I had no time for writer’s block to set in.
Why did you create a travelogue format to tell the Virginia story?
The Commonwealth’s wine industry is diverse in both players and terrior. I felt that by profiling its men, women and vineyards it would best convey to readers what was unfolding here. And I surprised myself with the scope the industry now encompasses; from Northern & Central Virginia, to the Shenandoah Valley, the Eastern Neck and the Southwest. The state’s enterprise covers all points on the map.
At times one hears that Virginia wine is overpriced. Your thoughts?
I don’t think it’s valid. Look at any artisan producers worldwide and you will see prices commensurate with Virginia. Can the state compete with wineries producing 200,000 cases or more a year? No. The economy of scale simply isn’t there. But our wines are not homogenized either. There is a terroir distinction to Virginia and to bring these unique wines to market in limited quantities requires a substantial investment. I think most buyers recognize the good price to value ratio.
What’s your take on wine tourism?
Tourists are also wine drinkers. When I wrote my book eight months ago, there were about 200 wineries. Today, there are some 230. I believe much of that expansion is fueled by rising quality combined with tourism. Some wineries do not embrace the tourist trade but for many it is a channel to success. Our reputation can grow through a diverse group of travelers who visit, taste and return home with words of praise for what is happening here; each visitor has the potential to be an ambassador for the industry.
How else can Virginia grow its reputation?
The Virginia Wine Board Marketing office is seeking to build market share in the Mid-Atlantic region and I agree with the strategy. I don’t think we can simply leap to the national stage without expanding regionally first. There’s simply not enough wine to make that happen.
Advancing our status through acclaim from regional wine critics and sommeliers in major markets like Washington and New York is important. Also, more vineyards need to be planted to match demand from the increasing number of wineries. I think we should seek new markets on the East Coast first and let national expansion unfold from there. Finally, we shouldn’t under estimate the power of online sales to stoke growth. You don’t have to have product in a shop in Chicago to sell wine there.
Closing Thoughts?
Thomas Jefferson spent the better part of his life unsuccessfully trying to advance the cause of wine consumption in the United States. Today, his dream is being fulfilled. We are now the largest wine consuming Nation on earth and Millennials—folks under 30 years of age—are fueling much of that expansion.
The future for Virginia wine and other emerging domestic wine markets couldn’t be better. It’s an exciting time to chronicle the Old Dominion’s success. Perhaps I should start thinking now about a sequel to the book. It’s fascinating to contemplate where the industry will be in another decade.
Love of the vine produces best wine in Virginia
On February 24, Governor Bob McDonnell announced the winner of the 2012 Governor’s Cup Wine Competition. “I raise my glass to Glen Manor Vineyards, whose 2009 Hodder Hill Meritage is a stunning representation of the best in Virginia Wines,” the Governor said. The wine trumped more than 400 other entries.
Jeff White
Accepting the award was Jeff White, owner and winemaker at Glen Manor Vineyards in Front Royal. Uncharacteristically, White was dressed in coat and tie instead of his ubiquitous farmer’s overalls.
But if the award winner had walked on stage in brown denim with pruning shears in his hip pocket, he would have been instantly recognized by those who know him best. The man is a farmer, first and foremost.
White’s love of agriculture might well be genetic. His great grandparents purchased his farm in 1901 and worked the hardscrabble property growing apples, peaches, wheat and corn and tending both dairy and beef cattle. They lived off the land emblematic of early rural America.
Decades later, early childhood visits to the homestead transitioned to full-time farming when White opted out of a Beltway defense contracting job in 1990. Wrestling with what crops to raise his Dad suggested wine grapes. There were sixty wineries operating in the state at the time and he reasoned a market for the fruit existed. Today, some 230 tasting rooms dot the Old Dominion landscape and White has evolved into both grower and winemaker.
But what does it take to make the best wine in the state? Like most thoughtfully posed questions, the answer is subtle and layered. But it begins with a passion for growing vines. A critical component of a well-made wine is the winemaker’s shadow falling frequently in the vineyard.
An aptitude test taken in the third grade identified White as an adventurer, thrill seeker and farmer; widely divergent traits. He engaged in rock and ice climbing as pastimes early on but farming turned out to be his abiding interest.
A winemaker’s education
Once he committed to growing wine he educated himself for over a decade. White recalls, “I sought the advice of many folks but two important influences were Tony Wolf, the Virginia state viticulturist, and Jim Law, the respected East Coast winemaker and owner of Linden Vineyards. In my twelve years of working for Jim, I came to more fully understand what it takes to produce superior fruit. Jim was also instrumental in educating my palate. If you are going to make great wine, you need to know what it tastes like.”
The 2009 Virginia vintage was good overall but exceptional for Glen Manor’s Hodder Hill vineyard. “There was considerable rain around harvest time but most of the storms missed our farm. We harvested clean fruit. A perfect vintage year would be cool, sunny weather followed by a dry harvest. It doesn’t happen often but ’09 was close to perfect for us. Weather and our vineyard site produced quality fruit that year,” says White.
But how is a Governor’s Cup winner actually crafted? It starts in the vineyard. There is irony in the fact White’s great grandparents purchased land good for only subsistence farming. It is not rich, fertile farmland but thin-soiled, rocky and steep; ideal for growing wine grapes. The best grapes come from soil that stresses the vines. It might be called “tough love”. Colors and flavors deepen as the vine is forced to thrive in such conditions.
At harvest time, White double hand-sorted the fruit, removing any rotten or unripe grapes. He only destemmed the clusters and did not crush the berries. “I also cold soaked the fruit in its juice for about four days to extract more color before inoculating with yeast in open bin fermenters. We punched down the carbon dioxide created hard cap twice a day to assure full juice-to-skin contact.” he explains.
Secret to a winning wine
Once fermentation begins it might be assumed cellar alchemy is employed to produce a winner. But White says, “The secret to my wine success is that there is no secret. I let the fruit fully express itself with minimal intervention. I make no sugar, acid, or tannin additions. I only add a malolactic culture to encourage a necessary secondary fermentation and use a minimal amount of sulfur to control harmful bacterial growth. All my wines are unadulterated. In reality, the more one manipulates a wine the harder it is to make a great wine; less is literally more.”
Aging is also an important element in producing red wine and small sixty gallon casks were used to bring the best out in his reds. For the 2009 Hodder Hill, White aged it mostly in new French oak barrels for ten months. He then continued the process for an additional five months in older, neutral barrels to increase palate depth and enhance mouth feel.
Blending was a critical element in making the wine. Like the French, this winemaker believes a blended wine is greater than its individual parts. His Cup winner was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon; 25% Merlot; 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. “We conducted blending trials for three months tasting and re-tasting all of the potential blends before committing to the final cuvée. We produced 200 cases or 2,400 bottles.” he says.
So might a future Governor’s Cup be lurking in Glen Manor’s cellars? Vintage 2010 was one of the best statewide in a decade. “I have some very nice wines barrel aging now. I’d be pleased if we could garner further recognition for what we are doing here in the vineyard and cellar but only time will tell,” says White.
Glen Manor’s tasting notes describe the 2009 Hodder Hill as “a complex wine with ever-evolving aromas of dark red berries, eucalyptus, licorice, tea leaf, cassis and fresh ground coffee beans.” Given that description,Virginia wine lovers will be looking forward to the 2010 rendition.
For more information on Glen Manor Vineyards wines and hours of operation, visit http://www.glenmanorvineyards.com/
Published in the 2012 Spring edition of the Piedmont Virginian.
Congratulations to 2012 Governor’s Cup Wine Competition winner Glen Manor Vineyards for its 2009 Hodder Hill Meritage and the twelve other gold medal winners.
- Jefferson Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc Gold
- Sunset Hills Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Franc Gold
- Bluestone Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Gold
- Keswick Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Gold
- White Hall Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer Gold
- Delfosse Vineyards & Winery 2007 Meritage Blend Gold
- Glen Manor Vineyards 2009 Meritage Blend Hodder Hill Gold
- King Family Vineyards 2008 Meritage Blend Meritage Gold
- Potomac Point Winery 2009 Meritage Blend Heritage Reserve Gold
- Veritas 2010 Meritage Blend Vintner’s Reserve Gold
- Keswick Vineyards 2010 Merlot Gold
- Trump Winery 2008 Sparkling Kluge SP Blanc de Blanc Gold
- Tarara Winery 2010 White Vinifera Blend Honah lee Gold
Likely Warmest March on Record Poses Threat to Virginia Wine Industry
Spring is perhaps the scariest time of the year for vineyard managers. As life springs forth everywhere—driven by rising solar energy—a bracing northern chill can bring it to an end.
Frost. It’s a chilling thought.
Farmers of a variety of crops can be hurt by a spring freeze but growers of delicate wine grapes are particularly vulnerable. If a vine’s tender buds are frozen, they cannot recover as some plants indigenous to Virginia can.
From March 1 through the 22nd, over 6,000 daily temperature records have either been broken or tied across the Nation. And as tempting as it may be to cry “Global Warming”, experts finger the cause to an unrelated high pressure ridge from the tropics that has moved as far north as Canada. This air movement has been further amplified this past week as we saw temperatures soar into the eighties. Where’d I put that can of sunblock?
The effect of the warmth is obvious…things start to blossom and grow. Lawns are being cut and the beautiful redbuds and forsythia are arrayed in purples and yellows. In the vineyards, many vines have begun to bud.
The Old Dominion’s Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are among the first vines to stir. In February of last year, I posted a story about one vineyard that sustained a mortal blow. The forecast for tomorrow night calls for temperatures around 32 degrees. ‘Tis scary.
Ironically, some vineyards at higher elevations may be more protected than their lowland cousins. A sloping vineyard permits cold air to run off the vines and pool outside the growing area. Conversely,vineyards that are on flat terrain or slightly depressed are particularly defenseless to frigid air settling in and freezing the tender shoots.
Actions can be taken to protect the vines ranging from using wind machines, spraying the vines with water to insulate the buds—or for deep-pocket vineyard owners—employing helicopters to force warmer upper air down on the vines. Nonetheless, many vineyards will remain unprotected if cold air comes calling.
With forecasts around the state calling for a possible freeze tomorrow evening, it’s nail biting time for many vineyard shepherds. And the last expected frost date in Virginia is May 10, some six weeks off.
So here’s a plea to all Virginia wine lovers: please keep your wine glasses crossed for the next month or so.
American Wine Society Recognizes Two Virginians for Industry Contributions
The American Wine Society, AWS—originally organized in 1967 at the winery of the legendary Dr. Konstantin Frank—culminated its 44th national conference in Rochester, NY on November 11, 2011 by honoring two men with close ties to the Virginia wine industry.
Gordon W. Murchie received the Award of Merit, the highest honor bestowed by the society. Murchie, one of the most recognizable wine names in the Old Dominion, has forged a storied second career promoting Virginia and the Eastern US wine industry since his retirement as a Foreign Service Officer in 1993.
Murchie’s numerous accomplishments include:
- President of the Vinifera Wine Growers Association from 1989 to 2008.
- Executive Director of the Virginia Wineries Association from 1999 to 2005.
- Preeminent leader and advocate in the growth and quality-focused development of both the Virginia and Eastern U.S. wine industries.
- Served on the board of the National Wine Coalition in 1991 and as its Executive Director from 1993 to 1996. In this role, he laid the groundwork for the U.S. Congressional Wine Caucus.
- Executive Director of the Licensed Beverage Information Council and legislative Chairman for the World Association of the Alcohol Beverage Industries, Inc.
- Tireless advocate on behalf of the wine industry to U.S. Congresses, administrations, Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau and international organizations since 1993.
One notable achievement familiar to Virginia wineries was Murchie’s role in founding the Mount Vernon Wine Festival, held twice yearly on the grounds of our first President’s home. Selection to participate in the festival is one of the more coveted honors a Virginia winery can receive.
Jim Law Winter Pruning
“I appreciate the time and effort Gordon has devoted to advancing the industry for two reasons: one, I don’t do it nor do I have the time; and two, I’m in awe of those who contribute to the extent he has. Gordon has actively advanced the growth of East Coast wine for the last few decades and his commitment has borne ripe fruit,” says Jim Law, owner of Linden Vineyards and one of the Mid-Atlantic’s leading vintners.
Lucie Morton, an international vinicultural consultant and lecturer, says, “Gordon Murchie has been a rootstock in the renaissance of Mid-Atlantic wine growing.” Praise from the likes of Law and Morton is not easily earned and reflects the respect the gentleman has earned in the Commonwealth and beyond.
“It’s gratifying to receive this award. My wife Anita and I have enjoyed our work on behalf of the industry. Over the years, we have met untold numbers of wonderful people in the East Coast wine scene. The memories are treasured,” Murchie says.
Dave Barber received the Outstanding Member Award at AWS’s annual conclave in recognition of his valued service. Barber is the business consultant for Hartwood Winery in Fredericksburg, VA. He is also an International Certified Judge, participating in a number of wine competitions.
His award highlighted his many achievements, including:
- Chapter Chairs of the Philadelphia and Northern Virginia AWS; the latter position he has held from 1986 to present.
- Coordinated the 1989 AWS Amateur Wine Competition.
- Served as Virginia Regional Vice President of the AWS for eight years beginning in 1992.
- Graduated from the Wine Judge Certification Program in 1988. He has been an instructor for the program from 1990 until the present. His dedication as a leader and mentor raised judging standards and assisted the AWS in achieving a reputation for qualified judges and reputable wine competitions.
Barber says, “It is truly an honor to be recognized by the American Wine Society. My work with AWS has been one of the most rewarding of my life. I look forward to many more years of advancing our region’s cause.”
Murchie and Barber are also active in the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association, ASWA. Murchie serves as President Emeritus for the organization formerly known as the Vinifera Wine Growers Association, and is an elected member of the Virginia Wine Council. Barber is a member of the ASWA Board of Directors.
The association’s current president is Carl G. Brandhorst, an illustrious wine educator and a certified wine judge with national credentials. Brandhorst is also regional officer of the American Wine Society, Chapter Board Member of the German Wine Society, and travels widely in furtherance of his wine expertise.
ASWA is the preeminent East Coast wine association with numerous achievements, including:
- Organized in 1973 as the Vinifera Wine Growers Association, it was among the first wine trade associations on the East Coast.
- Promoted the planting and harvesting of the European Vitis Vinifera wine grapes inVirginiaand the Mid-Atlantic.
- Organized and conducted the first Virginia wine festival and competition.
- First organization to present Virginia and other East Coast wines at the WineTECH/grapeTECH, and Unified Wine and Grape Symposiums, as well as conduct public wine tasting lectures on the West Coast.
- Organize and conduct the annual wine awards and tasting reception on Capitol Hill in cooperation with the U. S. Congressional Wine Caucus.
Men such as Gordon Murchie and Dave Barber have done much to advance the cause of East Coast wine. Mid-Atlantic wine lovers are fortunate to have such talent and commitment working on their behalf.
Published in the Spring 2012 edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Book Review
Beyond Jefferson’s Vines
The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia
By Richard G. Leahy
Sterling, 230 pages, $19.95
In 1809, Thomas Jefferson, contemplating the future of making wine from Vinifera grapes wrote his friend John Adlum, stating, “I think it will be well to push the culture of that grape (Alexander) without losing time and effort in search of foreign vines, which it will take centuries to adapt to our soil and climate.”
Jefferson’s observation was prescient. It would be two centuries into the future before Vitis vinifera grapes would prosper in abundance in the Old Dominion.
Today, some 230 wineries are operating throughout the state with over 80% of the vines being Vinifera; a species that produces 99% of the world’s wine. Mr. Jefferson would be pleased.
Science, coupled with perseverance, has produced a vibrant wine culture in Virginia that is on the cusp of national and international recognition. It couldn’t be timelier then to have a book appear that explores the Commonwealth’s vinous achievements and showcases the men and women who are the driving force behind the revolution.
Author Richard Leahy, who interestingly enough, lives near Monticello, has created a career as a wine educator and promotional maven. His writing centers on the Virginia and East Coast wine industries. His Wine Report chronicles his writings and travels.
Beyond Jefferson’s Vines takes the reader on a tour of selected Virginia wineries, spending time with owners and winemakers to better assess how the state has catapulted itself into the top five wine producing states in the Nation.
The journey begins with a thumbnail sketch of the state’s wine history centered on a visit by the Circle of Wine Writers, a predominately British group of journalists and lecturers, who travelled to Virginia in 2010 to experience first hand its winemaking and wines. The scene is set next to the re-planted vineyard at Monticello; an appropriate venue for the beginning of a leisurely tour of all the major wine regions in the state.
The excursion itself starts with a visit to the eponymous RdV Vineyards in Delaplane, owned an operated by Rutger de Vink, a talented and committed vintner producing Bordeaux reds that have garnered surprising critical acclaim for his first two vintages.
de Vink has raised more than a few eyebrows among the state’s winemakers for his flash-like leap to prominence. Reputations in the industry are generally hard-earned and there are some who question the accolades being extended to the creative artisan. Nonetheless, he earned his bona fides as an apprentice to noted winemaker Jim Law and has established a following of wine lovers eager to see if time will confirm his initial impressive bottlings.
Jim Law, Dennis Horton, and Luca Paschina receive early on attention given the out-sized roles they’ve played in Virginia. These are men who will be chronicled in the future as major contributors to the industry-wide advancement of what grapes to grow and how to craft the best wines.
It’s not widely known that Jefferson worked tirelessly for thirty years trying to produce a palatable wine but without success. Thus, it’s intriguing to learn the owner of Phillip Carter Winery, Philip Strother, discovered through diligent research that Charles Carter successfully made wines in the mid-eighteenth century—nine years before Jefferson planted his first vines.
In 1763, Carter shipped a dozen bottles of wine to England from grapes grown in his vineyard. He earned a gold medal for his efforts. It is the first recorded history of successful wine grape production in Virginia using European vines.
The reader is then guided on a fascinating tour of the state’s wine regions, including; the Tidewater, Northern, Central, Southern, Blue Ridge Highlands and Shenandoah Valley appellations. Along the way, personalities—known and new—are profiled, offering perspectives on career backgrounds and wine philosophies of a broad and diverse group of owners and winemakers. Only a select number of businesses are highlighted given the sizeable number of wineries in the state but it produces a rich tapestry of the industry as a whole.
A transition device used between visits is driving directions leading to the next winery on the tour, creating a useful guide book within the larger work itself.
The role the state government has played in building the industry is explored in a separate chapter. One learns that Governor Robert McDonnell signed into law last year a bill requiring the portion of the wine liter tax collected from the sale of wine produced by farm wineries be deposited in a Virginia Wine Promotion Fund. These revenues now total $1.35 million annually; double the previous amount and further advancing efforts to promote the industry’s growth.
Moving beyond the winery journeys and government support, Leahy pays respect to the small but increasing cadre of wine women in the Commonwealth. From legends such as the internationally known viticulturist Lucie Morton to Christine Lezzi, a regional wine distribution executive, to winemakers and vineyard managers such as Jeanette Smith, Kirsty Harmon, Amy Steers, Debra Vascik and Emily Hodson Pelton; fascinating women all who are contributing to the state’s repute.
Richard Leahy
Leahy also focuses his attention on how the national wine media is increasingly noting the accomplishments occurring within the state. For years, positive reviews were hard to come by but today as proprietors and winemakers set the bar higher the media is taking note.
Closing out the book, the phenomenon of exporting Virginia wine overseas is examined. The nascent but growing overseas distribution of Virginia wine by entrepreneur Christopher Parker and his company, New Horizon Wines, has almost single-handedly raised the profile of the state’s wine in Great Britain. Overseas acclaim and acceptance is emblematic of the broader recognition unfolding stateside.
Beyond Jefferson’s Vines is a valued addition to current genre of wine writing. It’s clean, straight forward prose and broad scope assures its use as both a who’s who of Virginia wine and a ready reference for readers who will be drawn back to its informative content often.
Turning the Corner on Winter with Old Friends & Mountain Trails
Take seven friends, fifteen miles of mountain trails, a cabin built in 1933, and late winter weather serving as a backdrop, and you’ll find a cure for any wintry blues that might be obscuring your life view.
And oh, throw in a couple of strangers to further brighten things up.
Son-in-law Drew & the old man
So it was on March, 2, 3 and 4, that I spent a rewarding three days in the Shenandoah National Park. I’ve been backpacking for over two decades. It began as a defensive measure when my four teenage children began to lose interest in Dad’s car and cabin camping trips and discovered girlfriends, boyfriends and cars. The great outdoors fell by the wayside as the young’uns got on with their lives.
During warmer months my trips are exclusively tenting events. But when winter comes round, a snug cabin after a full day on the trail is captivating. And it’s an indulgence easily acted upon by renting one of the numerous rustic cabins maintained by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club.
Range View Cabin
In early January, I reserved Range View Cabin in the North District of the SNP and issued a clarion call to my backpacking friends to join me; seven of them responded and the March trip was on.
The long weekend was divided into two parts. Since I’m retired I elected to escape into the forest on Friday morning and was joined by another retiree who has logged many trail miles with me over the years. We drove up Skyline Drive to milepost 22, parked, and hiked a mile to the cabin. Securing our backpacks inside, we grabbed light day backs and headed out for a seven mile mountain loop, arriving back at the stone dwelling around 4 p.m.
As we approached our lodging, voices and barking dogs broke the mountain silence. Who are these people hangin’ round our humble abode, I wondered.
“How are you guys doing,” the stranger said. We’re doing just fine I thought, but what about you two?
Not so good. Two friends, ably prepared to complete their day’s backpack, were overtaken by adverse weather four miles short of their destination. Windy, pelting, cold rain is not conducive to enjoyable hiking as dusk is falling; especially after having already logged ten hard miles on the trail. It was serendipitous they passed our cabin just as we were arriving.
Trail Break
“Would you mind if we spent the night on your cabin porch?” one of the hikers inquired. Hmmm. Moment of truth. I had two more friends joining us that evening so the eight person cabin could accommodate more people. But strangers? Instinct took over as I quickly assessed that the two trekers were solid citizens. “You’re in luck, we have room, come on in,” I said.
Later, when my friends arrived, an evening of warm camaraderie unfolded on the cabin porch as friends and strangers quickly became comrades. It didn’t hurt that our best new buddies—former military men—indulged in libations and stogies, a trait not often found among the outdoor set but one our crew engages in on every trip. Yep, outlaw backpackers, that’s us. And we happened to have run across two of our own. Sweet.
The next morning we parted with the two men and drove down to the morning side of the valley to meet the rest of our band. At 10am, eight hikers split into two groups at the traihead; one ascending Little Devil Stairs and the other the Keyser Run Trail. Two hours later we reassembled and group hiked the remaining four miles to the cabin. Cobalt blue skies and a fresh breeze driven by a cold front pushed the rain off to the east creating stunning views of the Shenandoah Valley below.
Saturday evening was a reprise of Friday’s celebration, sans our two newest mates. Old friends engaged in an evening of conversation, catching up with our lives since we had last gathered. The second evening was not a late one with the tired band hitting sleeping bags around 9 o’clock for a night of sound sleep.
We awoke Sunday morning to temperatures in the mid-twenties, prepared breakfast, packed up and hit the trail by nine. Our descent back to the cars was via the Piney Ridge and Hull School trails and included one dicey stream crossing. No one took a plunge, thankfully, and by noon we were bidding each other our goodbyes with promises of future trips to come.
To pull on a pair of hiking boots, throw a pack up on your back and wander over mountains trails with boon companions is the soul of a satisfying experience. It’s a primeval adventure in many ways, pulling you back to the essence of life.
Good friends. They’re hard to find, difficult to leave and impossible to forget.
Our stalwart group absent photographer Bob
Old House Vineyards, Culpeper County’s first vineyard and winery, has received the Chamber of Commerce’s 2012 Agribusiness of the Year Award.
The Chamber’s selection committee reviewed dozens of deserving candidates and chose Old House for its significant contributions to agriculture, tourism, and local business development.
“My wife Allyson and I are honored to be recognized for what we have built here at Old House,” says Pat Kearney, vineyard owner. “It’s been a lot of hard work. It’s gratifying to know we are contributing to the growth of the county’s business community.”
The Kearneys purchased their seventy-five acre abandoned alfalfa farm, located three miles east of Culpeper, in 1998. Their dream was to build a small winery and enjoy a more rural lifestyle with their family of three children. They lived in Fairfax County at the time of the purchase and subsequently moved to the Culpeper property.
After restoring an 1800s era farmhouse, they moved in and simultaneously used the residence as a home and tasting room. “Needless to say it was bit hectic in the early days. Raising a family in a place of business had its challenges,” says Pat smiling. Today, the family resides in a beautiful home on a small rise on the back of the property, within sight of their tasting room.
Old House Vineyards exemplifies how an entrepreneurial spirit can blossom into a valued asset for the owners, countless visitors and local businesses. The multiplier effect on the local economy has been dramatic in the fourteen years since the winery was founded.
Pat Kearney was operating a successful millwork firm in Springfield, Virginia when he purchased the farm. Today, Kearney & Associates, Inc. is located adjacent to the vineyard. The firm specializes in creating display cases, artifact mounts, dioramas and assorted graphics for museums nationwide.
“I enjoy my primary business. It lets me express my creative side. Allyson runs the winery operations on a day-to-day basis. It’s a heavy workload for the both of us but we love our life here in Culpeper,” says Kearney.
And the love shows. Over the years, the hard working couple has built an impressive property that attracts thousand of wine lovers from across the state and Nation.
After completing restoration of the original farmhouse, a four thousand square foot pavilion was built nestled next to a bucolic lake surrounded by vineyards. On a summer day the property is graced with picnicking couples and families, creating a scene out of a romantic movie.
The vineyard consists of twenty-one acres of grapes including Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Tannat. The fruit produces about 36,000 bottles of wine a year and has won numerous awards. Currently, their winemaker is a young Frenchman named Thibaut Debourg who holds degrees in enology and viticulture, the scientific study of winemaking and grape cultivation.
Wedding at Old House Vineyards
Their successful wine operation has spawned a hospitality business that has seen dramatic growth over the years. Old House has already has booked twenty wedding parties in 2012 in addition to other corporate and family events that lease the screened-in lakeside pavilion.
“One of the wonderful benefits of our success is sharing it with other local businesses,” says Allyson. “We are always referring our guests and wedding parties to local B&Bs, restaurants, caterers, florists and other shops in Culpeper County. We’ve become good friends with so many of our fellow business owners,” she says.
Fred Furtado, a county resident who has enjoyed wine tasting with his wife Betsy at Old House, says, “I love the beauty and serenity of the place. The Kearneys and their staff are hospitable folks who make you feel at home. We always enjoy relaxing in such a peaceful setting.”
Reflecting on the success of Old House Vineyards, one is tempted to think of a pebble tossed into their serene lake and rippling outward in all directions. Culpeper County is, indeed, fortunate to have a business that is green, sustainable and generating economic success throughout the county.
The Culpeper Chamber of Commerce honored Old House Vineyards on March 2 with a ceremony held at the winery.
Published in the February 23, 2012 edition of the Culpeper Times.
Frank Sinatra’s 1965 classic, “It Was a Very Good Year”, bears a title most winemakers hope to murmur after each harvest. Not so last year.
Rainy and cloudy skies framed by cool weather took its toll on vineyards in Virginia. In some cases, wide swaths of ripening fruit were lost to black rot and other fungi breeding in the gloomy days of September and October.
So let’s fast forward six months and reflect on what kind of wines are now sleeping in tanks and barrels across the Old Dominion. Is 2011 a bust? The answer is either unlikely or no with an emphasis on “no”. Talented vineyard managers and winemakers will dictate who produces gold medals this year and who won’t.
Generally speaking, 2011 will be a decent but not great vintage. Wines will tend to be a bit lighter in both color and taste and off-flavors might appear from time to time. This will occur because at the crucial growing period when wine grape sugars were rising and acidity falling, cool, wet weather put the brakes on the process. An unfulfilled grape can result in an unfulfilled wine.
So what’s a winemaker to do? Actually, lots of things. For white juice that is low in sugar content and high in acidity at fermentation time, boosting sugar levels both before and after the wine is made can create a balanced and lively white. This can be achieved through additions of cane sugar or grape concentrate. Acid can also be precipitated out of the wines to reduce tartness. Fortunately, white grapes sourced from many parts of the state benefited from ripening in late August, producing good fruit, including Petit Manseng, Viognier and Chardonnay.
Red wines can be more difficult to deal with. One technique employed by experienced vintners is to “bleed” the crushed fruit prior to fermentation. This process removes some juice and increases the ratio of juice to skin contact, enhancing depth of flavor and color. It also creates opportunities for making more Rosé wines, since the bled juice is light in color and produces tasty dry and off-dry wines. I predict we will be seeing more Rosé in tasting rooms this year and next.
Other cellar alchemy includes greater or lesser use of oak aging and tannin additions and enhancing color using grape extract produced from the skins of Vinifera grapes.
Hagarty Cellars 2011 Whites
At Hagarty Cellars, I have now bottled all of my whites; some thirty-two cases or 384 bottles. My cellar is stocked with Pinot Gris, Dry Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier and a Viognier-Chardonnay blend. It promises to be a very nice summer, indeed, as Jean and I and our four adult children and their spouses work our way through these clean tasting whites. And yes, we will not be able to consume them all. But my whites will last three to five years in the bottle before oxidation begins to set in.
So this amateur winemaker is generally pleased with his white wines this vintage. While my Riesling was high in tartaric acid I balanced it out with an addition of residual sugar to a level of slightly less than one percent, still producing a dry version. German Rieslings are considered dry up to 0.9 % residual sugar.
I did a side-by-side comparison of my 2010 and 2011 Chardonnays and found the 2011 was clean and flavorful, albeit not as full-bodied as my 2010 rendition, one of the best vintages in Virginia the last decade.
As of this writing, I am also happy with my reds. My Virginia blend of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is lighter on the palate than last year’s companion. But I also sourced some California Cabernet Sauvignon fruit that I blended in with it to make a Meritage, in addition to the Cab Franc. All my reds are clean and aging nicely. I will begin bottling them in May and June to prepare my cellar for the arrival of fresh fruit in September.
Winemakers in Virginia will be fully employed this year and I prophesize the critics will be impressed with the overall quality of wines they produce given the challenging harvest. As with any profession, education, skill and talent will prevail.
Guests Come for the Wine But Are taken By the Beauty
The wine is called Mesmerized. It’s a blend of Viognier and Vidal Blanc and earned its name from the behavior of arriving guests. As soon as they enter the tasting room they head for the deck. They’re mesmerized.
And well they should be. Sweeping views of rolling pastoral farmland unfold before the eye until resting on the distant peak of Old Rag Mountain; one of the most popular hiking spots in the Mid-Atlantic region.
“We looked at a bazillion properties before falling in love with this place,” says Donna Henrickson, co-owner of Little Washington Winery. “We’ve been here over a year and Carl and I still sit on the deck in the evenings in awe of this place. We can’t believe we found such an idyllic spot.”
But the land is not all views. Its twenty-five acres of southeast facing slopes and rocky soil crest at over 850 feet elevation providing an ideal location for growing wine grapes. Yet the Henricksons have taken their love of wine to even greater heights.
Donna & Carl Henrickson
“As a teenager my parents would save a few sips from their evening bottle of Bordeaux and have me taste it while teaching me to read the wine label. It was a memory that gave birth to my love of wine,” Carl fondly recalls.
Carl spent his career in business and community management. He sat on the Loudoun County Board of Supervisors from 1976 to 1984 and served in positions from sales manager to president of local software companies. Donna’s career was public relations and marketing in the hospitality trade and at the State Department.
By 2003, Carl’s home winemaking hobby had become an obsession and the couple focused on their retirement dream of owning a winery. What ensued were endless trips statewide looking at land and wineries.
In preparation to opening their own tasting room, they enrolled in Jim Law’s vineyard management and winemaking classes. They also gained invaluable experience producing major marketing events for Virginia wineries and publishing the popular Virginia Winery Hopping Guide; a vest pocket annual atlas listing wineries and directional maps to tasting rooms statewide.
In 2008, they finally happened upon a property with a winding dirt road entrance and located in the shadows of the Blue Ridge Mountains. “We looked at each other and said, this is it,” says Donna. After their extensive search, they elected to start from scratch and build a boutique wine destination near the historic village of Little Washington.
Today, the dream is being realized but retirement is still years away. The couple is having too much fun for now. “It’s hard work starting a winery from scratch. But it is gratifying to see people enjoying our wines and this peaceful setting,” says Donna.
The couple planted two acres of Viognier on the property in 2011. An additional four acres of red Bordeaux varietals will be trellised this year. Their goal is to keep the winery small. “We don’t want a huge operation. We’re focused on producing a few world-class wines and keeping this incredible 25 acres in farm use. This is a destination where folks can come, sit in awe, and get hooked on preserving farmland,” explains Carl.
In keeping with their unique business careers, the tasting notes at the winery reflect a business strategy seldom seen in Virginia. Each week, three Little Washington wines are featured alongside three wines from farm wineries in Virginia and points worldwide.
“Farm wineries are cool no matter where they’re located. Small lot wines are being hand-crafted globally and we want to share the best of them with our guests. We feel a connection to these winemakers and are pleased to open additional markets to them. We call the selections our ‘Dirt Road Tour’ in honor of the back roads where many of the producers are located.”
The Dirt Road wines are selected by Andrew Stover, a professional sommelier and winemaker. “Andrew has a broad knowledge of small wineries producing worthy wines. We’re fortunate to have his involvement in the selection process,” says Donna.
"Dirt Road" Wine Rack
Customers can choose from both Little Washington wines and selections from the “Dirt Road Rack” located in the back of the tasting room. All of the wines are periodically rotated through the tasting bar so visitors are provided a different tasting experience every time they visit the winery.
Little Washington Winery is a unique and welcome addition to the Virginia wine scene. Its owners are unpretentious and view wine as an everyday beverage and consummate food companion. “Some folks get a little carried away with intimidating winespeak. That’s not us. Our passion is about sharing the serenity of this place and making good wine,” says Carl.
Little Washington Winery is located at 72 Christmas Lane, Washington, VA. The tasting room is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. 540.987.8265. Visit them at http://www.littlewashingtonwinery.com/
Growth of Wine Club Leads to New & Expansive Members Lounge
When John Delmare, owner of Rappahannock Cellars in Huntly, opened the doors to his tasting room in 2001 there wasn’t a single California-styled wine club operating in Virginia. Today, the Old Dominion has dozens of such clubs scattered throughout the state.
John Delmare
“I was surprised that no winery was operating a club that regularly ships wine to its customers, while at the same time offering special privileges at the winery to those loyal supporters. It’s a sound way to build your business and to connect with a group of people who can act as ambassadors for both your business and the state in general,” says Delmare.
Today, Rappahannock Cellars is a leader in the Virginia wine industry. “About sixty-five percent of our wine is shipped to our membership,” states Delmare.
Such growth dictated an expansion of both the winery’s warehouse and its members’ club room. On December 10th, the new room officially opened. Not one to think small, Delmare created a 2,000 square foot venue located over top of a new equally-sized warehouse facility. The club room can comfortably seat 150 people for casual tasting, wine dinners and other similar events.
As one enters the warmly appointed room, multiple picture windows offer views in every direction of vineyards, forests and mountains. Sipping wine in such an atmosphere is a sure cure for chasing away the workweek blues. “Many of our members visit us on weekends to relax and enjoy the beauty of Rappahannock County. The room can serve as their ‘country club’ and its expansion is our way of saying thanks for their loyal support,’’ says Delmare.
The room will also be available for lease during the week to public and corporate users.
The growth of Virginia wine might well be labeled “explosive”. The first commercial winery was licensed in 1967 and today there are some 230 wineries in the state. Industry experts predict that the acceleration of the industry will result in a doubling the Nation’s wine consumption in the next decade. If that comes to pass,Virginia could well be home to some 500 wineries by 2021. In Rappahanock County there are currently seven tasting rooms in operation: Chester Gap, Gadino, Gray Ghost, Little Washington,Narmada, Rappahannock Cellars and Sharp Rock.
“I welcome our county neighbors to come and visit us. We’d love to give them a tour of our expanded facilities and share with them the benefits of being a club member. Most local members save on the expense of shipping by picking up their monthly allotments here at the winery. Plus, it creates an opportunity to spend a few hours of relaxation in a beautiful setting,” says Delmare.
The Delmare family is large and guests will often be greeted by family members who work and manage winery operations. Rappahannock Cellars is opened seven days a week from 11:30am to 5pm, and on Saturday till 6pm. Learn more about their extensive wine list and events by visiting rappahannockcellars.com.
Published in the January 5, 2012 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Will Big Money Be Driving Force Behind Virginia’s Wine Success
For the last forty years, winery owners and vintners in the Commonwealth have been advancing the cause of fine wine. Today, their success is evident as the “Mother of Presidents” lays claim to being the fifth largest wine producing state in the Nation; 5.5 million bottles annually to be a bit more exact.
But achieving respect from the national media is still elusive. Yes, a nod of recognition here and there draws attention to what is unfolding in the Old Dominion but the mantle of greatness still appears to lying somewhere over the horizon.
Nonetheless, the tipping point of fame might be edging closer. Could it be the fame of individuals that creates Virginia’s vinous fame?
Recently, it was announced that AOL founder Steve Case and his wife, Jean, purchased the Sweely Estate Winery in Madison. The winery was a tribute to a successful business career gone awry when more wine was produced than could be sold. Finger the recession, owner hubris, or a combination of both but the proprietor threw in the towel when he found a buyer for his fading dream. Now “You’ve Got Wine!” might be echoing around the Piedmont region.
But this news is not an isolated event. Over the last several years serious money has been finding a home in Virginia wine. If the trend accelerates, it could bode well for the entire industry. But first a little history.
In the 1960s, wine in America was not a pleasant cup; unless Thunderbird and Wild Irish Rose served as your evening cocktail. Then slowly, serious men began making serious wine. Many of them gravitated toward California and the best of the bunch called Napa Valley home.
In 1976, a wine tasting was held in France—dubbed the “Judgment of Paris”—that earned a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon the title of best wines in the competition. The USA beat the French at their own game. The unexpected coup helped launch a revolution in winemaking in this country and around the globe.
As Napa Valley met with greater success a trend began emerging. Money followed the fame. Names such as Frank Sinatra, Raymond Burr, Mario Andretti, Joe Montana, Jeff Gordon, Tom Seaver, Diane Disney, Carlos Santana, Francis Ford Coppola and an endless number of wealthy surgeons, lawyers, real estate moguls and power brokers built or snapped up one prestigious winery after another.
Today, there are over 450 wineries in Napa, vineyard land sells for as high as $235,000 an acre and a bottle of its cult wine goes for more than $300. The rich and famous struck hard and Route 29 that slices through the valley has become the road to Mecca for wine lovers everywhere. A once sleepy farming community is now world famous for its wine.
Such a trend might be taking shape in Virginia. Names such as John Kent Cooke, Dave Matthews, Donald Trump and now Steve Case are investing in its young and vibrant regional wine industry.
These successful people are being drawn to Virginia wine because they recognize its quality and potential. As each famous name is added to the list of winery owners it will attract the attention of other notable personalities. If the engine of Big Name success ignites, the Commonwealth could be closer to achieving the respect it its been waiting for.
Fortunately,Virginia covers almost 43,000 square miles as compared to Napa’s 788, so wine prosperity will not create gridlock in our pastoral countryside. But it could recreate Napa’s success on a smaller scale:
- Funneling tens of millions of tax dollars to state coffers.
- Employing tens of thousands of workers.
- Driving much needed money into rural communities.
- Furthering Virginia’s reputation as a vacation destination.
- Preserving land targeted for subdivision sprawl.
And, of course, producing wine rivaling the best made anywhere.
Fame. Bring it on.
Published in the December 11, 2011 edition of the Fauquier Times-Democrat.
Culpeper Purveyor of Fine Wines Opens at New Location
What’s the velocity of Vinosity? Over four hundred distinctive wines and eighty artisan beers in a single visit. An impressive pace.
Kim Kelly
Kim Kelly, proprietor of Vinosity—formerly Chateau du Reaux—recently moved diagonally across the street and about eighty paces from her old store and is now located at 174 E Davis Street. While she has been operating in a “soft opening” mode for the last few weeks, the shop was officially opened on Wednesday, November 16. Her customers couldn’t be happier.
Kelly, a former marketing and wine distribution maven, entered wine retailing back in 2008 when she purchased Chateau du Reaux. “We built our business during the recession, achieved success and needed to expand. This location is ideal and more than doubles our previous square footage. We also have a lower level that provides for further expansion in the years ahead,” says Kelly.
This year the United States became the largest wine consuming nation in the world, making it an ideal time to be in the business. However, experience and professionalism must be brought to bear to earn success in the competitive world of retail wine sales.
Upon entering the store you will find an extensive array of wines arranged by region and country with New World and Old World selections. New World wines hail from Argentina, Australia,Chile,New Zealand,South Africa and the United States. Old World renditions emanate from France,Italy,Germany, Austria and Spain. Both styles are popular in this full service wine shop which carries ample choices from around the globe.
In addition to wine, Vinosity is also a craft beer lovers playground, with an impressive selection of micro brews; domestic and international producers. Cider, Port, Sherry and Madeir around out the shops offerings.
In the center of the boutique store are long hand-crafted tables and chairs for in-store shop tastings which are held every Friday from 5-8 pm. “Either I or an industry representative will present 3 or 4 wines for tasting each week, describing palate flavors and appropriate food pairings. We stress wine education and strive to build the knowledge base of our customers. The more you know about wine the greater your appreciation,” emphasizes Kelly.
While the shop carries a diversity of wines ranging from inexpensive to ultra- premium, the emphasis is on high quality affordable bottlings. “I spend a lot time seeking out wines that are excellent and reasonably priced. We have over a hundred and seventy-five wines priced at $15 or less. Wine drinkers love discovering a great bottle at an affordable price,” she says.
In addition to wines, the new shop will feature an assortment of hand cut cheeses and freshly baked artisan breads. “With the addition of a kitchen in our new space, we are excited about the opportunity to expand our offering of complimentary products with an emphasis on local purveyors,” Kelly says smiling.
To round out the emphasis on upscale enjoyment, a fully stocked humidor of hand rolled cigars, fine stemware, and other wine related accessories are available for purchase.
Typical of many of her regular customers, Jeff Southard says, “Kim Kelly has a passion for wine and I’ve learned a lot from her. Her shop offers a wonderful selection of wines at good prices. What more could a wine lover ask for.”
A visit to Vinosity is like a step back in time while being thoroughly modern. From the polished wood floors and high ceilings to the seemingly endless racks of wine, the ambiance invites one to linger and enjoy. Much like a fine glass of wine.
Vinosity is open six days a week: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, 10am to 6pm; Friday, 10am to 8pm; Sunday, noon to 5 pm; closed Monday. Visit CulpeperWines.com or Facebook for information on upcoming shop events and more, or call 540.829.9463.
Published in the November 10, 2011 issue of the Culpeper Times.
End of Harvest
Is It Located In Napa, Burgundy, or Bordeaux?
Here in Virginia a typical tasting room might host a few thousand to perhaps 40,000 tasters a year. A lot of sipping is occurring in the Old Dominion, indeed, but it’s difficult to imagine the traffic generated by the major wineries in California who annually see hundreds of thousands of wine lovers hoist a glass at their tasting bars.
Nonetheless, where might the most frequently visited winery on the globe be located?
Tick, tick, tick, tick.
Time’s up. The answer is…North Carolina. Say what? Yep, North Carolina.
Tasting Room
According to the Biltmore Estate Winery in Ashville, NC, “…approximately 1 million visitors stop by to sample award-winning estate wines each year.” One million. How can this be? There are about a 100 wineries in the entire state, ranking it tenth in the Nation. California posts the number one position with over 3,000 wineries.
The secret to the Biltmore’s success is a house—called simply, you guessed it, the Biltmore House. Let’s visit its web site and hear the story:
The celebrated architect Richard Morris Hunt modeled the house on three châteaux built in 16th-century France. It would feature 4 acres of floor space, 250 rooms, 34 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces. The basement alone would house a swimming pool, gymnasium and changing rooms, bowling alley, servants’ quarters, kitchens, and more.
The chateau was finished in 1895 after several years’ construction and is a bona fide wonder of the world. In 1985, the estate dairy barn was converted to a winery and tasting room capable of hosting over a hundred tasters simultaneously at five separate islands. And it is packed every day. It’s impressive in concept and size and is in keeping with the scope of the House and the surrounding 8,000 manicured acres.
Recently, my bride of many years, Jean, and I spent a week in the mountains of North Carolina at a delightful venue called Lake Lure. It’s less than an hour’s drive from the Biltmore House in Asheville. We devoted an entire day to touring the estate and winery. It was festively decorated for Christmas displaying 57 Christmas trees, four miles of fresh garlands and tens of thousands of lights and ornaments. Rather than describe the impressive house tour we took, simply check out this video:
http://www.biltmore.com/videos/
After spending over two hours at the House, we drove three miles of scenic lanes to the winery where we tasted Biltmore wines, had lunch and shopped in Antler Hill Village, an upscale suite of shops with a petting farm of friendly goats, horses and other pastoral animals.
I also had an opportunity to interview one of the senior tasting room personnel.
While the web site states a million visitors a year taste the wines it’s likely a bit less. Not every one who tours the House is going to sip the wine. Whatever the number, it’s still impressive. The winery produces some 200,000 cases of wine a year. Surprisingly, about 85% of that production comes from fruit or wine from California,Washington state and Oregon. Over forty different bottlings are produced annually, the majority of which are Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
If you haven’t visited Biltmore House, it’s well worth the trip. The region has many quaint towns with antique shops, art galleries, beautiful golf courses and numerous other sightseeing opportunities all of which make it a memorable getaway destination.
The North Carolina state motto is Esse quam videri; To be, rather than to seem. The Tar Heel state certainly seems to be all it wants to be.
Biltmore House
