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No consensus on Fauquier County winery ordinance
Posted by: | CommentsStatute likely to be challenged
On July 12, the Fauquier County Board of Supervisors passed a controversial ordinance regulating the hours of operation and the type and number of events that can be held at the county’s 26 wineries. The public hearing saw 53 people speak in support or opposition to the proposed law. It takes effect January 1, 2013, assuming there are no challenges.
But that might be a bad assumption.
It seems many of the proponents and adversaries of the law aren’t happy with the legislation. The chances it will be reconsidered by the county either voluntarily or by law suit appear to be good.
Three players with strong interest in the ordinance shared their views on the issue.
Linden Vineyards
Jim Law
Jim Law Law is winemaker and owner of Linden Vineyards and one of the most respected vintners on the East Coast. His support for the ordinance runs counter to most of the other county wineries. Moreover, his vocal endorsement of the legislation at the final hearing strongly disappointed his fellow winery owners who felt his record was clear and speaking publicly was unnecessary and harmful to the industry.
His take on the reaction is philosophical. “I’ve not really heard much since the hearing. I’m not plugged into the blog thing. People tell me some things but I’m just mostly out in the vineyard and don’t follow the issue. This is the fourth time I’ve spoken at the hearings so my position was nothing new to those who know where I stand.
“Many of my neighbors and concerned citizens tell me Linden is an ideal winery. When I hear the ordinance is going to put wineries out of business, I think it’s ridiculous. Some people say I held such events in my early years and don’t appreciate where the newer wineries are coming from. It’s true. I did hold a few events in the early nineties but soon stopped it.
“One time I had a jazz band performing in my wine cellar when they started playing Jimi Hendrix. I knew then that events would change the nature of my winery and I mostly stopped them. I did some after that but they were related to wine education. I even wrote an article on my position several years ago.
“I think the ordinance is good zoning and the Board is being unfairly bashed. The beauty of this countryside is attributed to good zoning. We don’t have houses scattered everywhere and businesses located helter-skelter. The law takes a very thoughtful approach and the supervisors really took their time in passing it. They probably dragged it out more than they should have,” Law states.
Landowner
John Richardson practices law in DC and owns a 100-plus acre cattle farm in Happy Valley near Delaplane. He has followed the winery issue for several years. He underscores that he speaks as an individual but many of his views mirror those of the 400 or so citizens who supported the ordinance.
“I’m a wine drinker, as are many of my neighbors, and we support the industry. Some wineries are attractive and others are event centers. The essential business seems to be toward event centers rather than a vineyard or winery.
“Oasis was probably the catalyst for our efforts. Most people did not want that type of winery replicated. The county has an historic and environmentally protected heritage. Many people sympathized with our view, including the Piedmont Environmental Council and the Citizens for Fauquier County.
“Our concerns are noise, night lights, air pollution, water pollution and possibly unsafe buildings that do not have to pass inspection as part of a farm winery law. One lady at the hearing described how she won’t let her children play in her front yard because it’s perfectly obvious drivers are impaired as they pass her home after visiting wineries.
“But when the draft ordinance first hit the street last year, we knew it wasn’t harmless. If you give to one group, you take from another. Many of us don’t like the ordinance but its better than none at all. I think it needs to be revisited because it’s not a law than floats all boats.
“I would like see more flexibility in the ordinance. I would take a completely different approach. All the wineries are different; all neighborhood situations are different. I much prefer an ordinance that recognizes those differences and encourages cooperation rather than conflict.
“My preferred approach is to give the wineries the authority the state gave them but anything else would need a special dispensation from the county. I would have the wineries go their neighbors and see if they could reach accommodation then go to the county and say we all agree with this. The county would then say, OK you’re blest, go forward and do it that way.
“Nobody likes the ordinance. I think it’s a bad ordinance. It’s incumbent for everyone to come up with an alternative,” says Richardson.
Barrel Oak Winery
Brian Roeder
Brian and Sharon Roeder are owners of Barrel Oak Winery in Delaplane, or BOW, emblematic of the dog friendly atmosphere in the tasting room. BOW has met with considerable success since opening four years ago. It also may experience the harshest impact under the new law.
“If this new ordinance was in effect when we first opened and we received no administrative permits or special exceptions, it would have reduced our income by $1.8 million during that period,” says Brian Roeder.
“Business hours are a core issue for Barrel Oak. We are open till 9 PM on Friday’s during the winter months and 9 PM on Fridays and Saturdays in the spring, summer and fall. Next year, based on the new hourly restrictions our revenue predictions—after allowing for full special exceptions and administrative allowances—it will cost the winery $411,000 in revenue. And that doesn’t include lost revenue from our food carts and arts and crafts.
“We have operated from day one without one complaint from anyone. I’ve reviewed the Sheriff’s police report for the last two years. We searched the data base for the word ‘winery.’ Of all of the wineries in the county, there has been only one instance of where the word winery and DUI show up together. One.
“We are not talking about neighbors approaching wineries with complaints. We’re talking about ‘concerned citizens’ who are not necessarily neighbors of the wineries.
“I think it was a mistake on the part of the wineries as much as the Board of Supervisors. The Board became convinced the wineries were going to sue so they decided to throw everything and the kitchen sink into the ordinance and let the courts sort it all out. That assumes the small family winery community can afford to foot the bill. This is highly destructive.
“It places the burden on the wineries to prove the ordinance is illegal and we don’t have the money. It’s functionally designed to force wineries out of business. The county has defined every single marketing activity of our businesses as an event. If you do anything other than tastings at your bar, it’s an event according to the ordinance.
“BOW will be forced to sue the county to protect our legal rights. I will file a suit because I am required by law to challenge it within thirty days of passage. But it will not be ‘served”, which means we will continue to work with the county. I believe another suit will be filed by the Wine Council, but can’t say for certain.
“I also believe the Governor’s office will get involved based on the state’s interest in the matter.
“I seek a re-visitation of the ordinance that takes into account the enormous financial impact upon wineries. The law requires that the economic impact be taken into consideration. That’s never been done. They also need to show the impact on health, safety and welfare and that’s never been done.
“Our winery encompasses 270 acres and we have the support of our neighbors. I am certain there will be modifications or elimination of this ordinance as it is written. It is so illegal it will not be able to stand.
“Finally, I don’t fault the Supervisors directly on this group effort. I don’t blame them. They are all good people trying to do the right thing. We need to differentiate between the actual impact and the implied impact of the new law,” says Roeder.
Passions run strong on all sides of the issue and it appears certain the ordinance will be given further scrutiny in the months ahead.
Let’s hope the adage, “The best wine makes the best vinegar,” doesn’t hold true for Fauquier County wineries.
Published in the Autumn 2012 edition of The Piedmont Virginian.
Rappahannock Cellars Expands Winery
Posted by: | CommentsGrowth of Wine Club Leads to New & Expansive Members Lounge
When John Delmare, owner of Rappahannock Cellars in Huntly, opened the doors to his tasting room in 2001 there wasn’t a single California-styled wine club operating in Virginia. Today, the Old Dominion has dozens of such clubs scattered throughout the state.
John Delmare
“I was surprised that no winery was operating a club that regularly ships wine to its customers, while at the same time offering special privileges at the winery to those loyal supporters. It’s a sound way to build your business and to connect with a group of people who can act as ambassadors for both your business and the state in general,” says Delmare.
Today, Rappahannock Cellars is a leader in the Virginia wine industry. “About sixty-five percent of our wine is shipped to our membership,” states Delmare.
Such growth dictated an expansion of both the winery’s warehouse and its members’ club room. On December 10th, the new room officially opened. Not one to think small, Delmare created a 2,000 square foot venue located over top of a new equally-sized warehouse facility. The club room can comfortably seat 150 people for casual tasting, wine dinners and other similar events.
As one enters the warmly appointed room, multiple picture windows offer views in every direction of vineyards, forests and mountains. Sipping wine in such an atmosphere is a sure cure for chasing away the workweek blues. “Many of our members visit us on weekends to relax and enjoy the beauty of Rappahannock County. The room can serve as their ‘country club’ and its expansion is our way of saying thanks for their loyal support,’’ says Delmare.
The room will also be available for lease during the week to public and corporate users.
The growth of Virginia wine might well be labeled “explosive”. The first commercial winery was licensed in 1967 and today there are some 230 wineries in the state. Industry experts predict that the acceleration of the industry will result in a doubling the Nation’s wine consumption in the next decade. If that comes to pass,Virginia could well be home to some 500 wineries by 2021. In Rappahanock County there are currently seven tasting rooms in operation: Chester Gap, Gadino, Gray Ghost, Little Washington,Narmada, Rappahannock Cellars and Sharp Rock.
“I welcome our county neighbors to come and visit us. We’d love to give them a tour of our expanded facilities and share with them the benefits of being a club member. Most local members save on the expense of shipping by picking up their monthly allotments here at the winery. Plus, it creates an opportunity to spend a few hours of relaxation in a beautiful setting,” says Delmare.
The Delmare family is large and guests will often be greeted by family members who work and manage winery operations. Rappahannock Cellars is opened seven days a week from 11:30am to 5pm, and on Saturday till 6pm. Learn more about their extensive wine list and events by visiting rappahannockcellars.com.
Published in the January 5, 2012 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Narmada’s Unique Winemaker
Posted by: | CommentsDentist From India Crafting Fine Wines in Amissville
Is there a doctor in the house? Indeed, and she’s likely to be found in the wine cellar. She may also be the only woman winemaker in America who hails from the Republic of India.
Dr. Sudha Patil, an endodontist—or root canal specialist—has over twenty-five years dental experience and is co-owner of Narmada Winery in Amissville, along with her husband Pandit. She currently practices dentistry in Culpeper three days a week and can be found making wine and greeting winery guests on her days off. It’s a demanding schedule driven by her love of children and wine. Pandit retired from the Department of Energy and is a part-time energy consultant.
Sudha’s dental practice focuses on young patients in financial need who are often underserved by conventional dentistry. “Money does not drive my professional goals. Working with children who have serious dental issues is gratifying,” says Sudha.
But wine has also been a source of enjoyment throughout the Patils marriage. Vacations often included visiting winemaking regions around the world. As their retirement years drew closer, the couple reflected on what second careers they would like to pursue. “Initially, we simply wanted to farm a vineyard. Pruning and caring for grapevines is a relaxing pastime that can produce income. But a few years after working with grapes, we realized making wine was the logical next step,” Sudha says.
Education & Labor
The story of the Patils embodies their commitment to education and hard work. Pandit received his college education in the states and then returned to India to seek a bride. “The first young lady I began seeing was Sudha and I looked no further. It was the best decision of my life. She’s a jewel,” Pandit emphasizes.
Sudha and Pandit Patil
But Sudha drove a bargain with her husband-to-be. “We knew the chemistry between us was right. But I asked him if he would put me through college and dental school. I had always wanted to be dentist,” Sudha explains. Pandit committed to fulfilling her dream and the newly weds moved to America.
Pandit went on to obtain his PhD but it was ten years and two children later before Sudah’s vision became a reality. She graduated from George Mason University and then Georgetown Dental School before receiving her Masters Degree in Endodontics from the University of Maryland. Within two years she had created a successful dental practice in McLean, Virginia. Five years ago, she relocated her office to Culpeper to be closer to their Rappahannock County home. The Patil’s have been residents of the Commonwealth of Virginia for 35 years.
The couple’s success extends to their offspring. The wine lovers have two children with successful careers of their own. Their son, Dr. Susheel Patil, is an Associate Professor at Johns Hopkins School of Medicine and practices pulmonary medicine and critical care. He conducts research in sleep apnea. He has two wonderful boys. Their daughter, Mrs. Prema Patil Sharma, holds a degree in chemical engineering from Virginia Tech and worked for an international drug development company. She currently serves as part-time Business Manager at the Winery and cares for her 19 month old son.
Sudha studied winemaking and vineyard management under Jim Law, one of the most respected winemakers on the East Coast and owner of Linden Vineyards. She made her first wines with Narmada’s estate grapes in 2008 at Barrel Oak Winery with the guidance of Tom Payette, their current wine consultant. Her wines include Vidal Blanc, Chardonel, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Chamboucin, Cabernet Sauvignon and others. Current production is 1,700 cases annually with an ultimate goal of 5,000 cases.
Sudha Patil
The Patil’s purchased their property in 1999 and planted their vineyard and a cherry tree orchard a few years later. In addition to grape wine, plans are to produce a cherry dessert fruit wine when the trees mature. The tasting room has an expansive, wraparound deck that overlooks the vineyard and a lake; wine and scenery are brought together to assure guests a relaxing environment. Their private residence sits on a gentle ridge at the back of the property with a sweeping view of the entire landscape.
Narmada Winery is a unique addition to the Virginia wine scene. It reflects what can be accomplished when talent and industry converge. Moreover, it showcases a heritage known for its beauty and artisan skills. America’s strength lies in its cultural diversity and now Virginia wine lovers have their own Star of India.
Narmada Winery is opened Thursday through Monday, 11am to 6pm. Learn more about their wines and special events at www.narmadawinery.com. (540) 937-8215.
Experience India…Taste Virginia.
Published in the June 30, 2011 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Virginia Wine Earns Its Passport
Posted by: | CommentsGrowing Number of Old Dominion Wineries Selling Overseas
The British wine lover moves slowly down the aisle of a London wine shop examining various selections of Viognier. As he reads the back label of a bottle of Condrieu, France’s finest rendition of the grape, his eye catches a bottling of another wine he recently read about, a Virginia Viognier. He places the French beauty back on the shelf and lays the Virginia bottle carefully in his basket.
Another bottle sold. Another convert made. Virginia wine goes international.
Rappahannock Cellars Viognier
In some respects, Virginia’s emergence as a growing wine power house should not come as a surprise; especially if you work in the industry or have tasted the top tier wines to confirm its winemaker-driven achievements. But caution must be taken not to believe too quickly in owner-written press releases. The more salient question is what are folks outside of Virginia saying about the product?
In the mid-1970s, when commercial wineries began to blossom in the Commonwealth, the quality of the wine was…hmmmm, variable? Creating a wine industry with commensurate quality is an evolutionary process. In Europe, they have been working at it professionally for several hundred years. Even California was on the brink of commercial and critical success in the early 1900s when prohibition stepped in and halted its progress for decades. Wine takes time. And great wine takes lots of it.
Viewed in this context, Virginia’s growth in just forty years has been remarkable. Today, some 180 wineries are producing 450,000 cases a year. It is the fifth largest wine producing state in the nation. But as impressive as it sounds, consider that during the last twelve months Gallo vinified over 66 million cases. And worldwide there is 7 billion gallons of wine produced annually. Virginia contributes less than a drop to the world’s wine bottle. And yet, its reputation grows.
Reputations are hard-earned and easily lost as evidenced by a glance at any daily newspaper. CEOs, politicians, educators, and athletes, just to name a few, can see hard-earned achievements swept away in a tsunami of bad newsprint. So how has Virginia wine gained its growing recognition and how will it retain it?
Entrepreneur Provides Opportunity
Christopher Parker
One important benchmark for success is the attention generated by quality. Such acclaim builds slowly over time till a tipping point of wide-spread recognition kicks in. When our British wine buyer selected a Virginia Viognier over a better known French version the question arises as to why? The answer in this instance is that the wine earned its purchase because of its quality, but was provided the opportunity by a gentleman named Christopher Parker and the spotlight he has shone on the state’s wines.
Parker is a Londoner who has been living in Virginia for over twenty years. His previous career brought him to the states, and after successfully building his technology company he sold it and turned his business attention to Virginia’s wines and its lifestyle. “Shortly after arriving here in the late 80s, my wife and I began to explore the countryside west of Washington, DC. We were struck by its beauty and its wineries. We had no idea Virginians made wine,” recalls Parker.
As a lifelong wine drinker, Parker knew his wines. He and a business partner previously had operated a small wine importing business in the UK during their spare time, specializing in little known producers from around the world. After moving to Virginia, it was apparent to Parker a new venture could be devoted exclusively to the sale of Virginia wines in the United Kingdom. In 2008, New Horizon Wines was born.
In May of 2009, after laying the groundwork within the state’s industry, Parker coordinated a tasting of wines from nine Virginia wineries at the London International Wine Fair, the largest annual show for wholesalers in Britain. Nine winemakers from the state’s wineries traveled to London and personally poured their wines at the three-day event attended by 15,000 trade representatives. It was the first opportunity for most of the English wine professionals to taste Virginia’s product. The pros’ reaction was a combination of surprise and admiration. To date, New Horizon Wines has introduced a variety of bottlings from eleven Virginia wineries in Great Britain.
Notwithstanding this early success, Parker has no illusions about quickly exporting enormous quantities of Virginia wine overseas. There is an ocean of wine in today’s world market and gaining customer attention entails work, and a lot of it.
“I view my company as both a business and a labor of love. We are telling the story behind the wine label, and I can speak from experience of having lived here for over twenty years. We are creating an international market for Virginia wines. Each year our export business has grown. I’m also combining wine exporting with lifestyle travel experiences for my fellow citizens in the UK. A vacation at Keswick Hall combined with tours of the Charlottesville wineries is just one example of what my firm will be offering in 2011,” explains Parker.
Top Tier Wineries Sign On
So what wines are being sold overseas because of New Horizon’s efforts? Viognier and Cabernet Franc lead the pack but several other varietals are in the firm’s portfolio. The current list of local producers includes Boxwood Winery, Breaux Vineyards, Pearmund Cellars, Philip Carter Winery and Rappahannock Cellars. Other notable exporters are Barboursville Vineyards, Keswick Vineyards, Veramar Vineyards, Veritas Winery, White Hall Vineyards and Williamsburg Winery. The list will continue to grow.
Rachael Martin, Boxwood Winery
Rachael Martin, Executive Vice President, Boxwood Winery says, “I recently returned from England where I hosted two wine dinners featuring our wines. The response was gratifying and resulted in new orders being placed on the spot. The wines are being embraced because of their exceptional quality, not simply because of their place of origin. Our exports have doubled over the last year to some hundred and twenty cases. Next year we’ll see even further growth.”
Chris Blosser, with Breaux Vineyards, echoes Martin’s assessment, “I attended this year’s London International Wine Festival and experienced a defining moment in my wine life. Steven Spurrier, an icon of British wine, stopped by the Virginia tasting area and sampled all the wines. He returned a short time later with a major figure from France’s Viognier producing region of Condrieu, urging him to taste the quality of Virginia’s Viognier. The gentleman was impressed. It was no small reaction coming from a Frenchman producing the same wine in the home of the Viognier grape.”
Philip Carter Strother, owner of Philip Carter Winery, says, “In 1762, the Carter family of Virginia produced wine at the plantation Cleve and it was recognized in Britain for its quality. It’s gratifying that nearly 250 years later we are again providing citizens of England our wine.” Chris Pearmund, proprietor of Pearmund Cellars, recognizes the link with Britain and his family. “I hail from the UK and still have family living there. It’s great to be selling our wine in my native country. It’s a small volume, but in this industry you need to take one small step at a time,” he emphasizes.
John Delmare
John Delmare, owner of Rappahannock Cellars, thinks overseas sales of his wine builds creditability. “If you can export wine overseas, it sends a strong message to domestic customers that our quality is being recognized beyond the state’s borders,” he says. And Justin Bogaty, winemaker at Veramar Vineyards, similarly views Britain as an opportunity, stating, “Building our reputation domestically is a challenge given there are over 6,000 wineries in the United States. If we can deliver value-based quality wine to the British market, I think it will resonate here and help propel our industry forward.”
Parker places the state’s industry in perspective, explaining, “Virginia wine is a bit analogous to New Zealand’s experience. In the late 70s, they began exporting wine, generating some $40,000. Today, New Zealand has a mature market valued at over $800 million dollars. Virginia doesn’t produce enough wine to realize these kinds of numbers. But over the next few decades the state has a huge potential for direct and indirect economic growth from wine sales and associated business.”
British Scribes Impressed
A more recent achievement of Parker was his successful initiative to invite a group of nine wine media professionals from Great Britain and one from Canada to tour Virginia wine country during the second week of September 2010. The tour was organized in partnership with the Virginia Wine Marketing Office, several Virginia wineries, and regional hotels and resorts.
The attendees, members of an influential group called The Circle of Wine Writers, traveled over 600 miles through the Virginia countryside, visiting 11 wineries and tasting over 150 wines, while attending several dinners where regional fare was paired with local wines. For most of the writers it was their first visit to Virginia. Let’s listen in on some random comments as they described their impressions:
“Who expected Nebbiolo in Virginia, and of such high quality? I found them attractive young and very beautiful aged.”
“The Cabernet Franc Reserve from the perfect 2007 vintage was superb…this stunner will be aged for another 12 to 14 months before release.”
“The 2007 Seyval Blanc was lean and delicately structured, with vibrant acidity and citrus flavored freshness.”
“The Cabernet Franc had a big, rich raspberry nose, fresh fruit, and silky texture.”
“The quality of Virginia wines compares well with that in most other wine producing regions in the world. The Virginia wine industry is still in its infancy and on a learning curve—it didn’t take long to suss out the special qualities the Virginian soil can give to Viognier and Cabernet Franc.”
In summarizing the overall experience one writer wrote, “This has been an extremely enlightening tour for all of us—superbly put together and organized to show us just what Virginian wineries are capable of producing and their rapid improvement over the last 20 years. I am sure that if we are invited again, in just a few years time we will experience an even greater geometrical progression.”
It is important to reflect that each of these writers have returned home and is writing independently about their experience. Virginia’s reputation in the international wine market will be further enhanced by the opinions of these enophiles.
The challenge today for Virginia wine is to intensify its laser-like focus on quality. One marker foredaining this advancement is seen in the increasing number of national and international wine professionals laboring in our wine cellars and vineyards. The days of hobby winemaking morphing into a small business are fading fast. Laudatory assessments from around the world will continue only as long as winemakers and vineyard managers do not rest on their laurels.
Indeed, it’s taken an enormous commitment to achieve the current success in Virginia wine. But the work has just begun. The state’s national and international reputation depends on it.
Published in the 2011 edition of the Piedmont Business Journal.
The Great American Wine Buzz
Posted by: | CommentsIn the Not Too Distant Past Wine Served Chiefly One Purpose
The debate is long over. The United States produces some of the finest wines in the world. And its success has spawned an explosion in high caliber wine production worldwide. Today, nations as diverse as Argentina, Australia, Chile, New Zealand and South Africa have become wine powerhouses by following in the wake of California’s vinous success.
OK, the debate still rages as to the ultimate wine style: old world or new world. The former places an emphasis on subtlety, grace and elegance while the latter prides itself on bold, expressive, and fruit forward renditions. But wine lovers everywhere no longer reach for only European wines; California changed that paradigm over thirty years ago.
So it may come as a surprise that for a good portion of the last century wine in America was consumed for basically one reason. To get high.
When the twentieth century dawned, our nation was on the brink of entering a golden age of wine. Commercial success was being achieved in California with over 1,000 operating wineries, and parts of the mid-Atlantic region were experimenting with hybrid grapes that ultimately proved successful. Then in 1919, the hammer fell with passage of the infamous Volstead Act. Our nation’s wine industry collapsed into a death spiral as prohibition crushed production of fine wine. It took some fifty years to recover.
The difference between fine wine and cheap, fortified wine is the difference between a Rubens’ masterpiece and a delinquent’s spray-painted graffiti wall. It’s that huge. Sadly, “graffiti wine” soon gained commercial success.
But let’s back up a bit and set the stage for the immergence of fortified wines.
Before the “Big Dry”
Moonshine Mania
Prior to Prohibition, major wine producers adopted a business strategy that eventually led to the erosion of table wine growth. Firms such Italian Swiss Colony and others made a range of wine styles, but almost fifty percent of their inventory was sweet, higher alcohol wines, brandies and grappa. Loathe to disassociate themselves from the lucrative liquor market, wine was inexorably pulled into the vortex of the public’s anti-alcohol sentiment along with beer and whiskey. Instead of marshalling an effective fight to exempt wine from Prohibition, their desire for greater profits trumped their more traditional urges for making decent table wines. In short, greed won out.
After repeal of the 19th Amendment, brewers and distillers rebounded quickly but not winemakers. With the public’s perception as wine as booze, and reinforced with the idea that fortified wines were simply an easy fix for a cheap, quick buzz, serious wine production did not revive. Americans, particularly in low income neighborhoods known in the trade as “misery markets”, opted to buy pseudo wines. Quality wine’s reputation languished in this negative environment for decades.
In the mid-1950s, some 40 million gallons of table wine was produced annually as opposed to over 94 million gallons of fortified wines. Two brothers, Ernest and Julio Gallo, in their third decade of winemaking, realized that to fulfill their dream of becoming the largest winery in the world they had to come up with a creative idea to generate new customers. It came to their attention that in inner city neighborhoods cheap port was often sold with packets of lemon-flavored Kool-Aid. Customers then mixed the two together.
Springboarding off the idea of this homemade concoction, the Gallos conceived of performing the mixing process at their winery and created a wine called Thunderbird—a 21 percent alcohol port-style wine flavored with lemon concentrate. It was an instant success; years later Ernest claimed he thought of the beverage as a “lower-alcohol alternative to the evening cocktail.” But of course.
One of the more famous ad slogans of the era was, “What’s the word?” “Thunderbird!” “What’s the price?” “A dollar twice.”
As always happens in a free market, competitors quickly started producing similar types of wines and selling them under names such as Silver Satin, Ariba, Golden Spur, Red Showboat, and Zombe. It must have been great fun working in the marketing departments of these firms, conjuring up one exotic name after another for what was no more than cheap booze. None of the copy cats, however, matched the success of the original.
Being "half in the bag" was common for fortified wine drinkers.
Over the years these wines earned some interesting and descriptive monikers, including gutter punk champagne, street wine, block party breakup, goon, bum wine, bag wine, hobo juice and poverty punch. If the shoe fits…eh?
When the 60s arrived, wine had hit rock bottom in America. There was no way to go but up.
Wine Revives
The United States slow ascendancy onto the world stage of fine wine began fifty years ago but did not reach critical mass until the mid-seventies. Men on both the East and West Coasts dedicated to resurrecting wine as a lifestyle beverage played pivotal roles in not only producing but marketing their product. Understanding that little demand existed for quality table wine, these early wine pioneers were driven more by passion than financial reward.
In Maryland, a newspaper man and amateur winemaker named Philip Wagner became convinced that French-American hybrid grapes could survive the harsh East Coast continental climate and produce quality wine. He started the first post-Prohibition winery in Maryland in 1945, Boordy Vineyards, while continuing to work as an editor at the Baltimore Sun. His contribution centered more on imparting knowledge to mid-Atlantic grape growers and winemakers than producing large quantities of wine. He supplied cuttings and rootstock to professional and amateur winemakers alike and lectured widely throughout the eastern United States. Grapes he championed are still producing quality wines east of the Mississippi and include Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and Chambourcin.
In New York, Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian émigré, arrived in the Finger Lakes region in 1951 and observed only native grapes being grown. He was convinced that Vitis vinifera grapes, which produced ninety-nine percent of the world’s wines, had a future in the Empire State. He successfully planted the vines and soon others were following his lead. Dr. Frank also played an important role in Virginia wine by traveling to the state and introducing numerous vineyard techniques to budding viticulturists and winemakers. Today, over eighty percent of wine grapes grown in the Old Dominion are from the delicate vinifera species—think Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and more.
Robert Mondavi
Out in California, similar advances were underway. Early leaders included men such as Andre Tchelistcheff, Warren Winiarski, Mike Grgich and Robert Mondavi to name a select few. The 2008 movie Bottle Shock tells the story of the revival of quality wine making in Napa Valley. Steven Spurrier, an English sommelier and wine shop owner in Paris, was impressed with wines coming out of California. He conceived the idea to pit the best of France against the best California.
In May of 1976, nine high priests of the French wine world met in Paris and sniffed, swirled and sipped the finest wines from each country. All of them were tasted blind so the judges did not know which country any given wine hailed from. When the scores were tallied up shock reverberated around the tasting tables. Two wines from Napa took top honors; a 1973 chardonnay from Chateau Montelena and a 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. It was the wine shot heard round the world. Jim Barrett, Montelena’s general manager and part owner said, “Not bad for kids from the sticks.” To say the least.
Within a few years, California became a major force in global wine. Today, over 700 million gallons of wine are produced annually in the United States. The majority of this production is table, dessert or sparkling wines. While the sale of low cost fortified wine has declined dramatically, the market hasn’t disappeared. One popular bottling, Richards Wine Irish Rose, still sells two million cases annually. Nonetheless, only a small percentage of total sales represent the low cost, fortified wines so widely consumed back in the 60s.
The Future is Now
Our Nation’s wine ascendency is now in full bloom. Since 1999, there has been an 81% increase in the number of wineries coast to coast, with over 6,000 in operation today; all fifty states are producing either grape or fruit wine and are supported by nearly a million acres of vineyards.
Perhaps not even Nostradamus could have predicted such phenomenal growth. America’s four hundred year old culture of beer and distilled spirits is changing as a rising percent of the population—from twenty somethings to senior citizens—are opting for wine as a companion at social events and dinner.
With such popularity could advertising campaigns aping the marketers of yesteryear be appearing soon?
“What’s to say?” “Cabernet!” “What’s to like?” “It’s so polite!”
Published in the 2011 Harvest edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
The Father of American Wine
Posted by: | CommentsObscure Self-made Millionaire Created Nation’s Wine Industry
In 1803, a penniless young man arrived in a frontier town called Cincinnati on the banks of the Ohio River, a log village of 800 brawling, whiskey drinking ruffians. A glass of wine was the furthest thing from their minds.
Forty-eight years later, the gentleman was one of the richest men in America and his winery—the first successful commercial one in the United States—was garnering reviews from around the world, including one from the 1851 Great Exhibition in London that proclaimed, “Cincinnati has become the chief seat of wine manufacture in the United States.”
To prove his gene pool ran long and deep, seventy-two years further into the future his grandson, bearing his name, was elected the 43rd Speaker of the United States House of Representatives and was eventually memorialized by having one of the current House office buildings named in his honor.
Nicholas Longworth
This wine patriarch was affectionately known as “Old Nick” at the height of his career but history records him as Nicholas Longworth, an American wine icon.
True enough, grapes were planted and wine produced in states as divergent as California, Virginia and Texas for as long as two hundred years before Ohio tossed its hat into the wine ring. But none of these early efforts resulted in a viable wine industry. Often the finished product tasted terrible, or if palatable, was used for religious purposes. Dropping by a general store and grabbing a bottle of wine for dinner was not an option for our forefathers. When entrepreneur Longworth appeared on the scene, he permanently changed the domestic wine landscape.
The Longworth family dated to the early days of our nation’s history. During the Revolutionary War they remained loyal to the British Crown rather than join the fevered cause of independence. The price they paid was the destruction of their estate in New Jersey. Following the war, Nicholas headed west to clear the family name of loyalist taint and to rebuild the family fortune.
Standing just five feet tall and blessed with a passion for hard work, framed by modesty and likeability, he quickly began making his mark in the turbulent river town of Cincinnati. One of his contemporaries wrote that he was, “shrewd, sagacious, quick-witted; with great common-sense and acquisitiveness.” The man would have been quite comfortable in today’s executive suites.
An Agrarian Dream
Much like Thomas Jefferson, Longworth believed the future of the United States lay in the building of an agrarian society of stable farm families, not industrialists and merchants. In retrospect, it was a charming vision that would not prevail. In the early 1800s, the second Industrial Revolution was just emerging and widespread use of steam and locomotive power was still a few decades off. Farming the land was seen as the path to establishing a strong nation.
Ironically, his first major business success came as a real estate investor. Shortly after moving west, he turned to the practice of law. One of his early clients could not pay his legal fees and Longworth accepted a deed to fourteen acres of land on the outskirts of town as payment. The value of the property quickly skyrocketed and our future wine icon began a career in land speculation that eventually made him a multi-millionaire. He now had the money to pursue his philosophy of expansive land cultivation. Enter wine grapes.
Exhibiting another Jeffersonian belief, Longworth abhorred the consumption of hard liquor. Today, we under appreciate the reasoning behind the temperance movement. But in the mid-1800s, alcohol abuse was rampant, along with its associated ills of destroyed families and careers. Wine was a naturally made alcoholic drink that fostered civility while eliminating the heartbreak of distilled spirits. Its consumption perfectly matched Longworth’s agrarian vision.
If at First You Don’t Succeed
His first attempts at vine growing met with typical failure. Disease and weather took a heavy toll on most palatable wine grapes. To make drinkable wine that did not turn bad after bottling, distilled spirits were often added. This technique did not comport with Longworth’s desire to produce a naturally fermented, modest alcohol beverage. Eventually, he settled on growing the red Catawba grape and producing a musky smelling dry wine. His only problem was nobody wanted to drink it. Only sweet and fortified wines were marketable to the rustic, frontier population.
He observed that the odd aroma of the Catawba grape came from the skins so he tried fermenting the wine without skin contact, creating a blush libation that the local German population enjoyed. However, Longworth wanted wider acceptance of his wine and began experimenting with hundreds of varieties, including the classic European grapes. They all succumbed to the difficult climate and insect life of the Ohio Valley. Then a fortunate accident of fate occurred.
Catawba Grapes
In 1842, a cuvée of his Catawba—a grape resistant to the cultivation problems of most grapes—underwent an accidental secondary fermentation producing a champagne-like wine. It tasted far better than his previous efforts. He committed to produce more but needed the expertise of French winemakers. Now a wealthy man, he hired professional winemakers from the Champagne region of France to create a sparkling wine using the traditional méthode champenoise.
Soon he was bottling a substantial amount of his Ohio sparkler but the process came with some serious drawbacks. One major hiccup was the unfortunate side effect of exploding bottles. Since a second fermentation occurred in the bottle—creating all those zesty bubbles—it produced significant pressure inside the vessel. In one of his first years in producing the wine, forty-two thousand bottles exploded in his wine cellar. Can you imagine how much fun it must have been to work at his winery? “Duck!” was likely shouted numerous times a day as bottle after bottle sprayed wine and glass all over the cellar.
Success and Then…
Undaunted and rich enough to indulge his passion, Longworth started buying thicker bottles, employing even more experienced winemakers and dramatically increasing the volume of his sparkling Catawba. Soon not only the locals but wine lovers from around the country began to purchase the unique wine. He never claimed it was champagne out of respect for the original French product but more that one critic claimed it was a superior product.
By the mid-1850s, he was producing nearly 100,000 bottles annually and running advertisements nationwide. As expected, the wine caught the attention of the Europeans. One British writer with the Illustrated London News wrote that the wine “transcends the Champagne of France.”
Ohio Wine Country
Longworth’s success triggered a growth in vineyards throughout Ohio and by 1859 the region was producing nearly 600,000 gallons of wine, or three million bottles. There were over 2,000 acres under vine in not only Ohio but also portions of Kentucky and Indiana. The American wine industry had been born.
But as is the case with many success stories, it did not endure. Over time, the Catawba grape, which was a hybrid of an American native and classic European grape, began to succumb to the pressures of black rot, downy mildew and insect depredations. During dry years the problem was held in check but humid, rainy summers took their toll. During the 1850s, only three vintages were dry enough to produce quality wine. The industry began to fade back into obscurity.
In 1863, Longworth passed on to the Valhalla vineyard in the sky leaving behind the legacy as the first successful commercial winemaker in the United States. His estate was valued at ten million dollars, an enormous sum of money in the 1860s, and valued today at more than a quarter of a billion dollars. By any measure, the man was a success, and especially as the Father of American wine.
Among his last words was his lifelong dream of discovering, “a new vine,” one that “would neither mildew nor rot.” His son-in-law later wrote that, “He never found it in this world.” Today, in all fifty states a vibrant industry free of diseased vineyards is thriving.
Notwithstanding his failure of achieving permanently healthy vineyards, Nicholas Longworth demonstrated that quality wine could be produced and marketed in the United States. Shortly after his death, winemakers around the country slowly began to build upon his success. Today, his single winery has grown into an industry of over 6,500 wineries producing 711 million gallons of wine a year and is the third largest wine producing nation in the world.
The man embodied the American Dream and the dream prevailed.
Published in the 2011 winter edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Virginia Wine Staycations
Posted by: | CommentsWineries, B&Bs and Fine Hotels Offer Nearby Fulfilled Getaways
With over 170 wineries, more than 200 bed and breakfasts and numerous charming hotels, the opportunity for planning an overnight or extended vacation in the Old Dominion, without forcing the house into foreclosure, is almost limitless.
Beyond a doubt, a trip to Napa Valley or France to tour vineyards and dine at famous restaurants is an attractive adventure. It also comes with a multiple-thousand dollar price tag. How can you enjoy a similar holiday at a fraction of the cost? Simply think Virginia.
This past August, my wife Jean and I challenged our good friends Fred and Betsy to join us for a day of winery hopping followed by an evening stay at the historic Mimslyn Inn in Luray. Not surprisingly, they accepted.
Our companions had not visited many of our area vineyards so I crafted an itinerary that included six unique wineries. As the designated driver, I sipped lightly at each stop since I had been to all of them on more than one occasion.
The fascinating part of the tour for me was chatting with the proprietors. One of the delightful aspects of Virginia wine country is the opportunity to meet and talk with the owners, winemakers or vineyard managers. Up close and personal comes to life in the world of Virginia wine. This is not GalloWorld.
Barrel Oak Winery
Our first destination was Barrel Oak Winery—or BOW–in Delaplane. We arrived around noon, well before the busy mid-afternoon guest traffic. The winery’s growing reputation centers on dogs and kids. It is an eclectic atmosphere where “fun” is the password to a good time. As anticipated, upon our arrival owner Brian Roeder was surveying the tasting room and greeting visitors with smiles and pooches with patted heads. He smiled at us.
BOW is one of the fastest growing wineries in VA and challenges the concept that a quiet tasting room is de rigueur. Here the atmosphere is more akin to a family reunion with parents, grandparents, kids, young adults and several of man’s best friends tail wagging away, all enjoying the spacious tasting room, patio or picnic-tabled grounds. Before we departed, Fred purchased a bottle of Norton, a wine he’s not normally a fan of. The BOW creation, however, changed his mind.
Next we motored up Route 17 to Delaplane Vineyards. Owner Jim Dolphin was in the cellar when we arrived, but within minutes he was standing behind the tasting bar discussing the upcoming harvest and sharing some insights on the wines we were sipping. Dolphin chose a beautiful piece of property upon which to build his sleek looking winery. The tasting room features a long series of picture windows providing vistas of nearby rolling ridges and points further west. Typical of most wineries in our state, the views matched the quality of the wines. I purchased a bottle of the Maggie’s Vineyard Viognier, a grape performing very well in Virginia.
Next on the agenda was Linden Vineyards. Established in the early 1980s and situated on 76 high and rolling acres, the winery has acquired an almost cult-like following due to the passion for winegrowing of its owner, Jim Law. Law is one of the most respected winemakers in the mid-Atlantic region and writes extensively on the subject of grape cultivation and winemaking. Shortly after our arrival, Jim emerged from the cellar and we discussed the exceptionally hot summer Virginia was experiencing. Temperatures hovered in the high nineties for the better part of the growing season and Law had harvested his Seyval Blanc a few days before on August 12, one of his earliest harvest dates in memory. After our tasting the fine line up of wines, Betsy purchased a bottle of the Avenius Sauvignon Blanc and we departed, briefly stopping to snap some photos of the vineyard’s succulent Cabernet Franc vines heavy with fruit.
Descending back down the steep, winding and picturesque entrance to Linden, we drove a few miles north to Fox Meadow Vineyards. Again, this establishment sits on highly elevated land with sweeping views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. In fact, all six of the wineries that we were to visit on our tour possessed scenes worthy of an artist’s attention. Sipping quality wines in such pastoral settings has been known to reduce blood pressure readings by as much as 25-points. A winery a day keeps the doctor away.
Preparing for Harvest
Fox Meadows owners, Bob and Cheryl Mortland were behind the tasting bar when we arrived, pouring their lineup of exceptionally clean and tasty wines. Jean and I were particularly struck by the whites and purchased a bottle of the Le Renard Gris, a creative blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Bob and I chatted about our attending a tasting for a group of ten British wine writers to be held the following day at the Ashby Inn in Paris, VA. Even the Brits are getting the message about the rising quality of our state’s wines.
Chester Gap Cellars was our next destination. If it’s possible for the scenery to improve, the property that Bernd and Kristi Jung’s establishment resides on proves the point. Nestled at the top of Chester Gap at 1,700 feet elevation, views from the winery deck gaze down on scenic Rappahannock County, home to the internationally known Inn at Little Washington and another six wineries. Our schedule precluded the temptation to visit some of those wineries so we took a virtual tour by soaking up the views.
At the tasting bar, the Jungs performed a tag team minuet as they poured and described their wines. I’ve always enjoyed the style of wine produced by Bernd and again on this visit found the aromatic, full bodied offerings equal to the best in the state. As we prepared to depart, a bottle of his Viognier goes into the wine box in the back of our 4Runner. Will there be a fight at the end of our tour as to who gets whose wine? Fred eyes me suspiciously as I place my bottle next to his Norton. Memo to file: Don’t mess with Fred’s wines.
As we headed for our final tasting of the day, Glen Manor Vineyards, Betsy again pulls out her traveling hors d’oeuvre tray and serves cheese and crackers to the pilot, co-pilot and her sweetie. During wine tours you get to keep your trays in the permanent down position since all the landings are soft…and yummy.
Jeff White, proprietor and winemaker at Glen Manor Vineyards, located south of Front Royal, belongs to a long line of Virginia farmers whose origins date back to 1787 when the property encompassed 14,000 acres. Today, the estate consists of 212 acres, about 15 of which are under vine. Unlike all of the wineries we had previously visited, Glen Manor is tucked at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains and provides sweeping views upward of open pasture land, vineyards, and the faint trace of Skyline Drive at the top of the mountains. Beauty in reverse.
White, like Jim Law who he formerly worked for, considers himself a winegrower foremost, letting the quality of his fruit dictate his final wines. His philosophy is apparent in the glass as we drifted through two Sauvignon Blancs and three deeply flavored reds. Building memory lane is fun.
Philip Carter Winery Vineyards
With our afternoon fading into evening, we drove south via Route 340 to the town of Luray. I had reserved two suites at the historic Mimslyn Inn, built in 1931, and the recipient of a multi-million dollar restoration a few years back. The suites are beautifully appointed and after checking in and enjoying an hour’s respite to reflect on the day’s adventures, our foursome met for dinner in the comfy Speakeasy restaurant. My dinner of baby back ribs and fries were a perfect match for an accompanying glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.
After dinner we sat out on the third floor patio, star gazing and chatting until our eyelids began to droop. Time for dreamland.
Monday morning gifted us with typical Virginia August weather…hot and sunny. We breakfasted in the elegant and cool Circa ’31 dining room. Sliding away from the table an hour later we all realized there would be no need to eat till dinnertime.
As I pointed our winemobile east and drove up and over the lush Shenandoah National Park we fought the temptation to stop at few more wineries in route home. Between the samplings of fermented grapes enjoyed the day before and the belt expanding breakfast we just consumed, we made a group decision the weekend had been properly seized. Carpe Vino.
Planning your own wine getaway is as easy as consulting two web sites: First go to http://www.virginiawine.org/ and find a listing and descriptions of all the wineries in VA. Then Google http://www.innvirginia.com/ and choose a bed & breakfast to match your proposed itinerary.
Your own Virginia staycation awaits you. Release the travel agent inside you and start planning your trip today.
Mimslyn Inn, Luray, VA
Published in the November 25, 2010 edition of the Culpeper Times.
Historic Village, Historic Farm, Modern Wines
Posted by: | CommentsNew Hume Vineyards Producing Virginia Wines with French Touch
Stéphane Baldi grew up in France and lived in some of the most respected wine regions in the world. His family owned farms in Burgundy and later moved to the Loire Valley. But, they never grew grapes or made wine.
Nonetheless, the blood of a winemaker courses through Baldi’s veins. Perhaps there is a genetic throwback to his passion. Shortly after graduating from college his love affair for the fermented grape began to blossom in earnest; first as a consumer, then a collector—and following its natural evolution—a winemaker and owner of the new Hume Vineyards.
The young entrepreneur does not fit the profile of many of today’s Virginia winery owners who are enjoying second careers after successfully retiring from their chosen life’s work.
Stéphane, and his wife Andrea, are a couple that might be mistaken for up and coming, inside-the-beltway professionals, out for a day of winery hopping. And indeed, that is part of their current lifestyle as they delve into the art of winemaking and its marketing. But they are hopeful of transitioning their current business careers into full time winery owners.
If the past is prologue, success seems likely. Stéphane holds a PhD in social science and is a principal in a Georgetown firm doing work in the field of education for the federal government. Andrea also has a PhD and works for a research and consulting firm in McLean. Given the nature of their jobs, they are able to live full time on their fifty acre farm, commuting back to the city occasionally to meet with clients. The dovetailing of their professional careers and winery ownership provides them financial stability while launching their new business.
The Vision
The Baldis have a tightly focused vision for succeeding. “We want to be a boutique-styled winery producing small lots of quality wine that we only sell in our tasting room and at selected high-end wine shops and restaurants. Our goal is to ultimately produce around 5,000 cases annually. But, we are going to grow slowly and maintain quality,” states Stéphane. Currently, their production is 500 cases a year spread about evenly over four bottlings; Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin and two distinct Cabernet Sauvignons.
“During our travels, we fell in love with the wines of Paso Robles and Santa Ynez in California. Many of the best were coming out of smaller wineries creating exceptional wines. We wanted to produce a Virginia version of this exciting region,” Stéphane explains.
Tasting Room
The winery is located off Leeds Manor Road in Fauquier County, a few minutes from the historic village of Hume. It’s a bit ironic that folks are now imbibing wines in their tasting room which is located minutes from the old Barbee Tavern built in 1787, where travelers and locals alike sipped eighteenth-century refreshments such as cider, beer and whiskey. Quality Virginia wine was still a few centuries away.
The couple evaluated some 200 properties before making the decision to purchase the land. “We wanted to be about sixty miles from DC but in a relatively undeveloped area that emphasized the beauty of a rural, agricultural region. Hume met all our needs,” explains Andrea.
Historic Land
The farm dates to 1883 and was established by John Carper whose family has a long history tied to the early days of Virginia farming. He built a log cabin on the site of the current farm house which has been renovated into a modern colonial style home. “During the course of expanding the home, built in the early 1900s, we found evidence of the original log cabin,” Andrea says. John Carper was laid to rest on the property and his grave overlooks the young grapevines, a crop he would have likely never seen during his lifetime.
In 1901, the Wright family purchased the farm and kept it in continual agricultural production until the Baldis purchased it three years ago. Thus, the legacy of farming the land will continue into the twenty-first century.
Currently, the winery has five acres of vines consisting of Merlot, Viognier, Petit Verdot and Chambourcin. Future plantings will include Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, growing the vineyard to eleven acres of fruit.
The Winemaking
For most new wineries, the first few vintages are often produced using purchased fruit and the assistance of an experienced winemaker. This is somewhat true for the Hume Winery. The steep learning curve in cultivating vineyards, producing wines and opening a tasting room can be leveled under the tutelage of a professional.
“My relationship with our consultant is different than most. I am producing all of our wines and seek input on an as needed basis. I control the wine growing and winemaking and utilize a consultant to deepen my understanding of the nuances of the art,” Stéphane emphasizes. His skill as a vineyard manager and vintner is evidenced by the high quality of his first bottlings.
For the Baldis, the winery is a passion with callused hands. They manage every aspect of the business and are emblematic of a family run farm operation. There is no staff to provide assistance. Moreover, the winery commitments are balanced with the demanding requirements of their professional lives. “We only travel into the city as necessary. Our ultimate goal is to be working here exclusively. I love the farm. This was not Andrea’s dream originally, but mine. Now she has become an integral part of our winery and we are working together to make it a reality,” says Stéphane.
After visiting the peaceful setting of the Hume Vineyards, it’s easy to appreciate why one would want to abandon the rigors of a high pressured job requiring an extended commute. Even if it means working harder than ever.
Stephane & Andrea Baldi
It’s a Jungle Out There
Posted by: | Comments
From a distance it often looks like an enormous green flag lying softly upon the land. Row upon row of sculpted grape vines undulating over the hills and swales. The vineyard beckons.
We know the scene well because countless works of art have depicted the iconic view. It embodies all that is rewarding about working the land. Woodie Guthrie memorialized it in his song Pastures of Plenty with the line, “Cut the grapes from your vine…to set on your table your light sparkling wine.”
But like many of life’s visions, there is the reality of it all. Especially in Virginia. Growing European wine grapes in the Old Dominion can be as difficult cultivating corn in Alaska. Well, maybe not quite that hard.
Virginia’s emergence as a promising wine powerhouse has been a long time coming. About 400 years long. The English colonists who landed at Jamestown in 1607 recognized the lucrative potential in winemaking. Their new home abounded with native grapes and within two years they had produced the first wine. It tasted awful.
Thus began a 350-year trail of tears, as generation after generation of winemakers tried to commercially produce wine in our state. The vintners encountered a host of problems, not the least of which was our climate, soil, and varied insect life, or what the French call terroir…the “somewhereness” of the fruit’s cultivation.
One of the major hurdles that could not be breached was the disappointing aroma and flavor of our native grapes. Yes, they grew in profusion and still do. But achieving anything resembling a quality bottle of wine from them was not possible. One of the abiding characteristics of indigenous wine is its foxy aroma and taste, or more pointedly, “wet dog” nuances. Taste a cabernet sauvignon along side a scuppernong and you would not be spending a lot of time fermenting the latter.
An interesting cultural phenomenon emerged because of this failure to produce wine in America. Our nation was launched on a path of beer and hard liquor consumption. Since fruits, grain and corn were cultivated with relative ease, folks fermented or distilled these agricultural products so as to have an alcoholic drink at hand. Alcohol was consumed in prodigious amounts in our nation’s early history. Think of it as that era’s social libation, plus an over-the-counter painkiller and physic drug cabinet, containing Prozac, Zoloft and Valium. Alcohol was the genie in a bottle and it granted our ancestors many wishes.
After the initial failure to produce palatable native wine, French vines were imported, followed by French vinegrowers, or vignerons, to work their magic. This time the vines did not even reach maturity before they withered and died. It became apparent wealth was not going to be amassed pursuing winemaking. Instead, the colonists decided to plant a crop that grew like a weed, tobacco. And while it was commercially viable, it also destroyed the land not to mention countless addicted smokers.
So what were the mysterious problems the early winemakers encountered? Why couldn’t they make decent wine? Let us count the ways.
First, ninety-nine percent of all wine is produced from the grape species Vitis vinifera. The grape is commonly referred to as the Eurasian grape vine because its origins were at the meeting point of Europe and Asia. Over eons the fruit developed traits enabling it to thrive in these environs. Unfortunately, this was not the grape species our colonists stumbled upon.
When the delicate European plant was shipped to America it landed on hostile shores. Cold winters, hot humid summers and a host of above and below ground insects were lying in wait for the tasty, little plants. No matter how experienced a winegrower was, successfully growing such tender fruit was not in the cards. Most vines succumbed within a few years of planting. An entire vineyard could be defoliated in a matter of days by beetles alone. It must have been heartbreaking for those early winegrowers to encounter failure year after year, while gazing at the thriving native grapes all around them.
Even Thomas Jefferson, our nation’s first wine connoisseur, tried to grow the European grape for over thirty years without success. Nonetheless, over time, the native grapes did hybridize with its high-class kin to produce wines that were more acceptable to the taste buds. But American hybrids never achieved more than regional curiosity status.
Then in the 1970s, vine growing embraced science and a wine industry began to emerge. One early leader was Dr. Konstantin Frank, a winegrower from New York State who expounded the idea that the delicate Vitis vinifera grape could thrive in the mid-Atlantic region. The good doctor traveled to Virginia and instructed a small group of dedicated growers on the methods of deep vine planting, proper root stock selection, correct trellising systems, canopy management, targeted spray programs and a host of other techniques he had perfected in the Empire State.
Virginia began to take some tentative steps into the world of serious winemaking. It was a thrilling and scary time for these wine pioneers as they rolled grapes onto the roulette wheel of fine wine production. It was also when the technique of keeping your fingers crossed while holding a wine glass was perfected.
After proper rootstock selection, canopy management and spray programs are the keys to the successful production of the classic wine grapes. Because Virginia’s soil is largely clay, it easily retains water and stimulates excessive vine vigor. Unless relentlessly pruned, the unchecked foliage can swamp a vine, denying the fruit of much needed air and sunlight to ripen the berries. It also can incubate lethal funguses and mildews waiting to spread across a vineyard, defoliating vines and limiting the cover and nutrients necessary for successful fruit maturation.
So with today’s vineyard successes, is this end of our story? Not at all. ‘Tis just the beginning. What started as an embryonic industry with one commercial winery in 1975 has blossomed into some 160 Virginia wineries and 3,000 acres of vineyards. The next ten years will see even greater progress and recognition of our wines as the caliber and knowledge of our viticulturalists and winemakers advances even further.
Indeed, Virginia is poised on the threshold of wine greatness. Our first winemakers must be softly smiling.
Published in the Summer 2010 edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Team Winery
Posted by: | CommentsCreating a Successful Winery Requires Cluster of Critical Disciplines
Visit most Virginia wineries and your first impression is one of peaceful relaxation.
Meticulously pruned vineyards undulate softly across fields of green. The soft tinkle of wine glasses and murmured conversation fill the tasting room. During warmer months, couples and family groups are seen picnicking on landscaped lawns, or patios and decks.
The atmosphere and the wine exude a sense of well being and offer visitors a brief respite from the stress filled environment of modern society.
But, creating such a relaxed and enjoyable setting requires focus and commitment. Let any aspect of the experience falter and soon customers will be driving past the establishment to the winery down the road.
Fortunately, most Virginia wineries work hard to assure guests a good time. One such local establishment is Rappahannock Cellars in Huntly. The winery is located at the corner of Hume Road and Route 522, seven miles south of Front Royal.
Let’s listen in as the five individuals responsible for the success of this business briefly describe their wine world.
Proprietor
John Delmare
John Delmare is a native Californian who relocated his family, and winery, to Virginia in 1996. He had previously owned a winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and was drawn to Virginia as an inviting place to raise his growing family, and by its burgeoning wine industry.
“I was impressed with what was unfolding in Virginia. Both the state and the industry itself were supportive of newcomers. Yes, growing grapes and making wine here is more difficult than out West, but the challenge has been justified by the rewards. We’ve built a good life here,” states Delmare.
“I view my job as the general manager, or more specifically the “rudder” that navigates our business; as such, I continually monitor all activity in the winery. This includes keeping my finger on the pulse of sales and production, including which wines are selling best and tracking inventory. I make decisions today that will impact our business three years or more into the future. Growing fruit and making wine is not a short term endeavor. Misjudging the type or volume of wine needed can lead to serious supply problems down the road,” he underscores.
Delmare’s other duties include producing checks for up to thirty vendors a week, processing payroll, submitting monthly reports to federal and state authorities on the amount of wine produced, sold and warehoused, participating in tasting and blending trials of his new wines, holding regular staff meetings, hiring part-time staff to cover busy weekend traffic, and acting as his own bookkeeper.
Winemaker
Jason Burrus
Jason Burrus is a professional winemaker with an MS degree in Viticulture & Enology from the University of California, Davis, the nation’s most prestigious wine university. His resume includes stints at Robert Mondavi as well as other California and foreign wineries. He has been with Rappahannock Cellars for four years.
Burrus is responsible for all winemaking activities. Each year he oversees the purchase of off-site fruit and the harvesting of estate grapes, determining the styles of wine to be produced, converting the fruit to wine through fermentation, and ageing and blending the final bottlings.
“The public’s perception is that winemaking is a romantic occupation. And it does have its creative moments. But the day-to-day managing of a cellar containing up to 35 different lots of wine is a demanding job with ample opportunities for error. A sensitive palate and the ability to concentrate and work error free—coupled with being in good physical condition—is the mark of a successful winemaker,” says Burrus.
In addition to creating wine, Burrus evaluates and purchases barrels, tanks and all winemaking supplies, attends local and regional winemaking seminars, spends countless hours creating potential blends with associated spreadsheets, and manages the bottling operations of the final wines.
Vineyard Manager
Tom Kelly
Tom Kelly has managed commercial vineyards for more than a decade, seven of those years with Rappahannock Cellars.
“Quality wine springs from quality fruit, so attention to horticultural details has me spending much of my time in the vineyard. In the spring, I perform soil analysis and amendments, and then oversee the pruning and spraying operations throughout the summer. Canopy management, or controlling the amount of light and air the fruit is exposed to, is also a critical concern of mine. It’s gratifying at harvest time to see Jason working with prime Virginia fruit,” says Kelly.
Outside the eight foot vineyard fence, Kelly’s other duties range from managing the wine warehouse, performing maintenance and repair on a host of farming equipment and cellar infrastructure, and attending meetings of Virginia grape growers.
Tasting Room Manager & Wine Club Manager
Anita Raiford
Anita Raiford oversees tasting room operations. Raiford, a former Capitol Hill staffer, brings enthusiasm and attention to detail to creating an environment conducive to sipping wine. Her job is analogous to a cruise ship director but with a wine glass as backdrop rather than a life preserver.
No amount of vineyard or cellar magic will keep the financial books from turning red, if the setting for enjoying the wine is not welcoming. Tasting wine in an uninviting room with indifferent staff is a sure route to slow business. The wine industry is much more than just the wine.
Raiford’s challenges are similar to many businesses today, training and keeping qualified employees. “Our busiest times are the weekends and having sufficient tasting bar coverage keeps our guests in a contented state.
“We are fortunate to have loyal and committed employees who are eager to make each tasting a fun and educational experience. We encourage them to continually increase their wine knowledge and share it with guests,” emphasizes Raiford.
Beyond staffing and scheduling, keeping the winery gift shop shelves stocked and making certain the club tasting room is in pristine condition is also focus one for her.
Allan Delmare
An additional full-time position is the wine club manager. Allan Delmare manages the club which provides two bottles of wine each month to its several hundred members. “The club is our way of building a closer relationship with a vitally important group of customers. Our members enjoy the privileges the club offers while helping us build our brand,” says Delmare.
Most of these disciplines are employed throughout our state’s wineries. In smaller operations, the owners are often performing all the duties themselves. Inattention in any of these areas—regardless of the size of the business—is a setup for declining business. An important benefit for wine lovers is that Virginia’s rapid winery growth is fueling enhancements in both settings and wines. Failure to “keep up with the Jones” has real and negative consequences for inattentive owners.
So next time you leave a local winery, reflect for a moment on whether the experience was enjoyable. If it was, it’s likely the “five horsemen of wine hospitality” achieved their goals of attracting a steady stream of customers.
After all, enjoying wine is a social experience. And the more tasters involved the merrier the experience becomes.
Rappahannock Cellars
Published in the May 13, 2010 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Virginia Wine Comes of Age
Posted by: | CommentsFauquier County Reaping Benefits of Centuries of Virginia Winemaking Challenges
Winery at LaGrange
By the end of 2010, it’s anticipated Virginia will be home to 170 wineries. Here in Fauquier County, twenty bonded wineries are providing citizens and visiting wine lovers a relaxing life style and a healthful libation undreamed of thirty years ago.
Simply put, Fauquier may well be on the path to becoming the new Napa Valley if this extraordinary growth continues.
This accelerating expansion is all the more startlingly coming from a state known more for tobacco, battlefields and presidents than fine wine. How did it come about?
Virginia’s emergence as a promising wine powerhouse has been a long time in the making. About 400 years long. The English colonists who landed at Jamestown in 1607 recognized the lucrative potential in winemaking. Their new home abounded with native grapes and within two years they had produced their first wine. It tasted awful.
Thus began a 350-year trail of tears, as generation after generation of winemakers tried to commercially produce wine in our state. Our forefather vintners encountered a host of problems, not the least of which was the climate, soil, and varied insect life, or what the French call terroir…the “somewhereness” of the fruit’s cultivation.
One of the major hurdles that could not be breached was the disappointing aroma and flavor of our native grapes. Yes, they grew in profusion and still do. But achieving anything resembling a quality bottle of wine was not possible. One of the abiding characteristics of indigenous wine is its foxy aroma and taste, or more pointedly, “wet dog” nuances. Taste a cabernet sauvignon along side a scuppernong and you would not be spending a lot of time fermenting the latter.
An interesting cultural phenomenon emerged because of this failure to produce wine in Virginia. Our nation was launched on a path of beer and hard liquor consumption. Since fruits, grain and corn were cultivated with relative ease folks fermented or distilled these agricultural products so as to have an alcoholic drink at hand.
Alcohol was consumed in prodigious amounts in our nation’s early history. Think of it as that era’s social libation, plus an over-the-counter painkiller and physic drug cabinet, containing Prozac, Zoloft and Valium. Alcohol was the genie in a bottle and it granted our ancestors many wishes. Not all of them good.
After the initial failure to produce palatable native wine, French vines were imported, followed by French vinegrowers, or vignerons, to work their magic. This time the vines did not even reach maturity before they withered and died. It became apparent wealth was not going to be amassed pursuing winemaking. Instead, the colonists decided to plant a crop that grew like a weed, tobacco. And while it was commercially viable, it also destroyed the land not to mention countless addicted smokers.
Then in the 1970s, vine growing embraced science and a wine industry began to emerge. One early leader was Dr. Konstantin Frank, a winegrower from New York State who expounded the idea that the delicate Vitis vinifera grape could thrive in the mid-Atlantic region. This species of vine produces all of the world’s most popular wines.
The good doctor traveled to Virginia and taught a small group of dedicated growers the methods of deep vine planting, proper root stock selection, correct trellising systems, canopy management, targeted spray programs and a host of other techniques he had perfected in the Empire State.
Fauquier County resident Treville Lawrence, who owned an estate in the The Plains called Highbury, was an enthusiastic supporter of Dr. Frank. His experimental vineyards produced some of the first classic Eurasian grape varietals in Virginia. The seeds of success were planted.
Based on these early achievements, Virginia began to take tentative steps into the world of serious winemaking. It was a thrilling and scary time for these wine pioneers as they rolled grapes onto the roulette wheel of fine wine production. It was also when the technique of keeping your fingers crossed while holding a wine glass was perfected.
So with today’s vineyard successes, is this end of our story? Not at all.
What started as an embryonic industry, with one commercial Virginia winery in 1975, has blossomed into a thriving enterprise with over 3,000 acres of vineyards statewide. The next ten years will see even greater advancement as the caliber and knowledge of our viticulturalists and winemakers deepens.
As a result of the efforts in the 1970s, we are fortunate today to be growing numerous classic wine grapes. Two in particular are performing beautifully in both the vineyard and the wine cellar. Let’s take a closer look at the grapes that are enhancing the landscape of many Fauquier County vineyards.
VIOGNIER
As with many French names, this grape can be a bit difficult to pronounce at first. Say vee-own-YEA. The grape hails from the northern Rhone Valley in France and is thought to have originated from the Romans who introduced it into Gaul over 2,000 years ago. It was once widely planted in the Rhone Valley but slipped into obscurity as it became more difficult to grow.
During the 1960s, there was less that thirty acres of Viognier planted in all of France, a nation with over two million acres of vineyards. The grape was clearly in decline.
In the mid 1980s, a California winemaker of wide repute, Joseph Phelps, adopted the vine and anticipated it might be the next Chardonnay, one of the most popular white wines in the world. Unfortunately, it did not achieve the popularity in California he anticipated. Then, about twenty years ago, it was introduced into Virginia’s vineyards. Here, it has taken to our terroir like a kitten to catnip.
The wine produces a medley of luscious aromas and flavors redolent with honeysuckle, peach, pear and melon. It can be vinified in oak or crafted in a clean, crisp style that eschews oak undertones. In either case, its ancient lineage glows with a creamy mouth feel and soft spice finish. It is a wonderful alternative for those drinkers known as ABCers–Anything But Chardonnay.
CABERNET FRANC
This grape has been the workhorse of red blended wines for centuries. The majority of appellations around the world use the grape to enhance other classic reds. Since it produces a wine somewhat lighter in color and tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, many Bordeaux reds contain 20% or more of this grape. It is aromatic with a wide range of flavors centered on raspberry, plum, cherry and spice. And its firm acidity produces a food friendly beverage.
The attributes that favor growing the grape in Virginia are its cold hardiness and early ripening traits. Coaxing the best out of a wine grape requires meticulous management of the vineyard. Possessing inherent strong qualities in the vine itself eases the vineyard manager’s work. Cabernet Franc’s qualities are well suited to our state’s soil and climate.
In Virginia, many Cabernet Francs are blended with a touch of other reds. For a wine to be labeled the name of a grape it must contain at least 75% of that specific wine. Often you will find our state’s Cabernet Francs contain a dash of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot or Malbec. This blending strategy mirrors in reverse the technique used in Bordeaux.
As with Viognier, our Cabernet Franc has garnered a host of competition medals and awards. We can count on even finer bottlings in the years ahead as our winemakers learn more about showcasing this wine’s unique character.
DRINK LOCAL
So the next time you are visiting one of our Fauquier County wineries, take the time to linger over these two winning wines and a host of other quality bottlings being produced locally. Experience more fully the magic of handcrafted wine enjoyed in beautiful settings typical of our county wineries.
There’s no need to travel to France or California to experience world-renowned scenery and wine. In less than a thirty minute drive from anywhere in the county you may well discover your next favorite tasting room and bottle of wine.
As an added attraction, county wineries host a variety of events on most weekends throughout the year. In addition to the traditional wine tastings, look for live entertainment, barrel tastings, luncheons and the ever popular wine dinners. And if you have house guests from out of town, you will easily impress them with the delicious vintages and sweeping scenery that is the hallmark of our local wine country.
Indeed, Virginia and Fauquier County are poised on the threshold of wine greatness.
Our first winemakers must be softly smiling.
For a listing of all of Fauquier County wineries, tasting room hours and directions, visit: http://www.visitfauquier.com/wineries.html
Published in the May 2010 edition of the Warrenton Lifestyle.
Enhancing Your Enjoyment of Wine
Posted by: | Comments
What is the largest wine-consuming nation in the world? France? Italy? Spain?
If you said France, take a bow. But, what nation will likely lead the world in total wine consumption next year? Surprisingly, it’s the United States. Yes, last year as a nation we consumed over 300 million cases of wine—or more than 3.6 billion bottles. And in 2010, it’s projected we’ll top that figure. That’s a lot of wine.
Per capita consumption will remain the domain of France and Italy but next year Americans are expected to begin consuming more wine overall than any country on the planet. This a remarkable change in our drinking habits. For almost four centuries beer and liquor have been the dominant libations of choice in the United States.
Why? The reason dates to the first colonists at Jamestown. The English settled Virginia in hopes of creating a profitable market for goods produced in America. The profusion of native grapes led them to believe wine could be easily made in the new world. And the market for wine in England was substantial. Unfortunately, the native grapes did not make palatable wine. The aroma was called “foxy” but a better descriptor might have been “wet dog”. And, they could not successfully grow the delicate European vitis vinifera grape species because of Virginia’s climate and insect problems. Clearly, the English palate, trained on quality Bordeaux wine, would not support a nascent industry producing a wine they considered undrinkable.
The early Virginians finally found a product marketable around the world—tobacco. Virginia’s climate was perfectly suited for the broad-leafed plant and serious winemaking was mostly forgotten. But, citizens still wanted an alcoholic beverage so the distilling of fruit and corn became popular. Our nation was launched on a path of beer and liquor consumption that prevailed for the better part of four hundred years. In the 1960s things began to change as science and viniculture—the science of grape growing–joined forces to produce high quality European wine grapes in Virginia.
Today, there are over 140 wineries in our state. The dream of the early colonists is being fulfilled in the Old Dominion and its wines are gaining national and international attention.
With this explosion of Virginia wineries—the first one opened in 1968–the stage was set for an ever-growing number of Virginians to begin experiencing the pleasure and health benefits of moderate wine consumption.
So let’s take a look at some of the basics that can enhance your enjoyment of your favorite wines.
First, purchase and use a reasonably good glass. It does not have to be expensive. An average quality wine glass can start around $5 a piece but an elegant crystal glass can cost upwards of $70 a piece. Ouch! No need to start at that level. But, higher quality stemware can increase the enjoyment of wine. Think not? Picture drinking a serious wine out of a black, ceramic coffee mug compared to a delicate crystal glass–the vessel matters.
Next, fill your glass no more that one third full. This enables you to easily swirl the wine and release its aromatics. One of the numerous beauties of wine is its unending array of aromas. Don’t miss out on this aspect of wine tasting by filling a glass to the brim. Give your wine room to move and breathe.
Now comes the fun. Enjoying your wine. All you need do is focus on four thoughts. Eyes. Nose. Mouth. Throat. Yep, it’s that simple. Deepen your wine experience and increase your enjoyment of wine by focusing on these four simple precepts.
EYES
The beauty of wine begins with its colors. From the pale straw gold of a sauvignon blanc to the ruby hue of a cabernet franc. When you pour your first glass, take a moment to embrace the clarity and depth of color of the wine. Holding the glass against a light and letting it catch the various angles of natural and house lighting sets the stage for what you are about to further explore.
NOSE
Swirl the glass to release its aromas. Now place the glass under your nose and breath deeply. Come on. You can stick your nose in deeper that that! Inhaling through you nose begins telling the wine story. Smell the taste. In fact, you might do this several times before you take your first sip. Build tension—its has its rewards.
MOUTH
Now comes the heart of the wine experience–your first sip. Take a few small sips and roll the wine around your mouth a bit. It may seem odd, but all those flavors you are about to enjoy are actually a result of your olfactory bulb. What? OK, your nose. The olfactory bulb is located at the top your nose and actually sends signals to your brain about what you are tasting based on what you are actually smelling. Our palates only have four taste sensations: salt, sweet, sour and bitter. The raspberry, cherry, pineapple, mocha and sundry tastes are simply aromas rising off your palate and passing through the olfactory bulb. The more you swirl the wine in your mouth the greater perception of flavors will emerge.
THROAT
After tasting, swallowing the wine comes naturally. No instructions needed here. However, look for a sensation on your palate that experts call a “finish.” Wine comes with an aftershock, albeit a nice one. In fact, the longer a quality finish remains on your palate the better a wine is rated. World-class wines can linger on the tongue for up to a minute after they are swallowed.
Perhaps at this point you may be thinking. Is he kidding? I am expected to go through this process every time I drink a glass of wine? Well, no. It’s not the intent to assess a wine with every sip from every bottle. After the opening examination, the wine’s aroma and taste will be observed and it’s time to simply start drinking as opposed to tasting. But, periodically as you consume the wine, try stopping to enjoy one of the four basic aspects of tasting. Eyes. Nose. Mouth. Throat.
Your enjoyment of wine will increase with your understanding of it. Unlike most mass-produced beers and soft drinks, every different bottle of wine holds a new and interesting aroma and taste. And that’s not to denigrate those beverages. Consistency in taste is an art and science and our most popular beverages are successful in achieving their goals. But, wine drinkers are looking for variety. And it exists in abundance. Today, in the Unites States, about 55,000 different wines are available in the marketplace. That’s not to imply such a broad wine selection is available in every local market. But, it highlights how diverse the world of wine is today.
In the years ahead I look forward to exploring an array of issues involving wine. I also will focus on evaluating wines from our Piedmont area wineries. Let’s take that journey together.
In Vino Veritas—In Wine Truth.
Published January 29, 2009, in the Culpeper Times.
