Author Archive
Elegant European Stemware Comes With Impressive Guarantee…But
Around this wine writer’s house, wine glasses have a limited life span. High quality glasses enhance the beauty and flavor of wine but they’re more delicate than a bride’s emotions on her wedding day. Both must be treated tenderly or they’ll get hurt.
But a quality vessel is so important to enhancing the wine drinking experience one should be willing to buy and set aside a few special glasses. Think it doesn’t make a difference? Try sipping your next fine wine out of two different vessels; a crystal glass and a fruit juice glass. Then draw your own conclusion. Like all products, quality makes a difference.
And so it was that for several months I eyed an ad in the Wine Enthusiast catalog for a glass called the Fusion Classic. It came in six different models depending on the type of wine you intended to use it for. I elected to purchase the Chardonnay glass because I think it’s useful as an all-purpose vessel…whites and reds look and taste great in it. I paid $49.95 for four, including free shipping.
Equally important, the glass was touted as break-resistant. Specifically, the ad read: “European crystal is fused with super-strong magnesium to form a durable, lightweight, graceful wine glass. Science meets sophistication, and the result is shatterproof.” Hmmmm.
But I couldn’t lose with the purchase since the stemware came with a 10-year replacement policy. Ten years. Break a Fusion glass and get a replacement at no cost. So I placed my order and waited eagerly for the UPS truck to come lumbering up my driveway.
Fast forward two months after my original purchase. I have now broken four of the glasses. I cannot say they are the original four since I was being sent replacements almost as fast as I was breaking them. And how did they meet their demise?
- Glass #1 was pulled from my overhead glass rack with a piece missing. I have no idea how it broke.
- Number #2 was tipped over as I reached for a piece of cheese on our deck dining table. It was no violent lunge. My hand simply grazed the glass, it tipped over and I was back on the phone talking with my growing number of friends at Wine Enthusiast.
- Glass #3 was being withdrawn from the dishwasher when an adjoining plate bumped it. Krack!
- The fourth casualty occurred as I gently hand washed the inside of the victim with a sponge. Pop! “Hello, customer service?”
The most amazing thing about this experience is the folks at Wine Enthusiast could not have been more helpful and responsive in sending me a replacement glass. No questions. No challenges. No arguments. Simply, “Is the mailing address the same as the original order?”
At the moment, I am waiting for the arrival of my fourth replacement. I hope it comes quickly. I’d love to have all four of the glasses in my house at one time.
Before I posted this blog, I contacted Wine Enthusiast and advised them I was going to write on my experience. Here’s the response I received back the same day:
Dear Mr. Hagarty,
We apologize that you are not happy with your Fusion glasses. We rarely hear of so much breakage from one customer, and more often than not we hear how happy customers are with these glasses. Although the glasses are break resistant, they ARE still glass, so they still must be handled with care indicative of glass, not polycarbonate glasses. These glasses are covered under warranty, so if you would like replacements to be sent to you please feel free to call 800 648 6058 and someone will be happy to assist you.
Thank you,
/s/ a customer service manager
Impressive, eh? I certainly will continue to do business with the firm in the future.
But, if we happen to meet in the year 2021, ask me how many Fusion glasses I have gone through. By my rough calculation I could be on my 160th replacement by then. Yet again, my treatment of the stemware is getting gentler each day.
How It All Began
2010 Rosé Going, Going…
The Wine
Jim Dolphin, owner and winemaker at Delaplane Cellars, has created a summery Rosé that is as colorful to the eye as it is on the taste buds. Slightly off-dry at 0.9% residual sugar, it is beautifully balanced with bright acidity creating a dry wine experience.
In the glass, vivid red hues lead to delicate watermelon aromas that intensify on the palate as strawberry and watermelon. The overall effect is a clean, finely balanced wine that mysteriously keeps disappearing in the glass.
The bottling has been extremely popular and its original 145 case production has dwindled down to a precious few; it is no longer available for tasting. Limited supplies are waiting to be enjoyed during our coming Indian summer. But buy only one bottle and you’ll regret it.
Now the good news. Expect a higher production of Rosé next year at Delaplane.
The Food
An evening on the deck with an easy to prepare crab imperial was the perfect match for this bright Rosé.
Ingredients
- 1 pound crabmeat
- 1/2 cup mayonnaise
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
- 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning TM
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 3 tablespoons butter
Directions
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C).
- In a medium bowl, combine crab meat, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay Seasoning, salt, cayenne pepper, dry mustard, and beaten egg.. Mix thoroughly.
- In an 8″ pie dish, spread mixture and lightly coat the entire dish with bread crumbs. Then sprinkle the top with paprika. Dot the dish with the butter.
- Bake in a preheated oven for 20 minutes.
Snagging Venerable Wine Books with a Keystroke
You’ve gotta love the internet. Its scope is ginormous. Consider that even back in 2009 there were:
- 90 trillion emails sent.
- 234 million websites in existence.
- 1.73 billion users worldwide
- 126 million blogs.
If you can’t find it on the internet, it’s likely not worth knowing or possessing. One of the more useful actions this writer uses the net for is to purchase used books.
Yep, it’s a clash of the old and new. Forget Kindle. Reading hard copy tomes is in this writers’ blood. And wine books are the near the top of his favored subjects, with over fifty titles in the man’s library.
Perhaps the easiest channel of purchase is Amazon.com. Type in the name of almost any book and up pops the selection ready for a one-click purchase. But wait. Glance down a line or two and you’ll see a used copy that can often be had at a fraction of the new book price.
Sweet.
Let’s briefly review a few of the more interesting volumes on this blogger’s book shelves. The list is not meant to be comprehensive and other’s favorites may not appear here. Nonetheless, here is some solid writing on the subject.
A Short History of Wine by Rod Phillips; 370 pages. This well researched volume could be read three times and you’d still be learning about the advancement of wine from earliest civilization to the 21st Century.- American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine by Paul Lukacs; 386 pages. From failure to worldwide recognition; just one fascinating story after another about the growth of the US wine industry.
- Home Winemaking Step by Step by Jon Iverson; 226 pages. This is this home winemaker’s go to book. An easy to understand guide packed with all the critical details for producing wine at home.
- Judgment of Paris: The Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine by George M. Taber; 326 pages. The movie Bottleshock was based on the events covered here. Wonderful perspective on the early days of modern California winemaking and the revolution it unleashed.
- Making Sense of Wine by Matt Kramer; 240 pages. Wine Spectator’s premier columnist will have you highlighting passage after passage as he educates in his conversational style.
- Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine by Mark Oldman; 364 pages. If you fancy yourself becoming a sommelier someday but don’t have the time or money to pursue it, this is a good shortcut. You’ll return often to this fun and highly informative reference book.
- Passions: The Wines and Travels of Thomas Jefferson by James M. Gabler; 318 pages. And you thought Tom was simply the author of the Declaration of Independence; the man had a serious wine problem in the best sense of the word.
- The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine Dynasty by Julia Flynn Siler; 452 pages. A breathtaking story of the family who put America on the fine wine map.
- The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. by Elin McCoy; 342 pages. He created the 100-point wine evaluation scale and changed the way Americans evaluate and purchase wine.
- The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode; 216 pages. One of the most informative books on modern winemaking and written in an accessible style. A tour de force on how grapes become wine.
- The Wine Trials by Robin Goldstein; 188 pages. This one may upset the wine snobs but learn how the average Joe lets his palate guide his choices.
- To Cork or Not to Cork by George M. Taber; 278 pages. Why are screw caps advancing in popularity? Learn how New Zealanders and others lost patience with cork producers and led the way in upsetting a 300 year-old tradition.
- Wine for Dummiesby Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW; 403 pages. The title may be off-putting but you’d be hard pressed to glean more basic information on the world of wine than this easy to read dissertation.
The world of wine is a subject almost without end. With each different bottle we open the journey begins anew. Today, the United States is entering its golden age of the fermented grape. Increasing your knowledge about this elixir will enhance its enjoyment.
So pull the cork then turn the page. Hard copy isn’t dead yet.
Published in the 2011 Winter Edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Back in February, I posted an update on my 2010 white wine production. Typical of many commercial wineries, I bottle my whites some six months after harvest so we can begin drinking the fresh, crisp and dry wines. This year those included Seyval Blanc, Pinot Gris and Viognier.
Only my Chardonnay lingered in six gallon carboys for some additional months while it went through malolactic fermentation. Even then, it saw no oak aging; naked or virgin Chardonnays are gaining wider acceptance in the marketplace and they comport with our white wine preference. White wine with oak? Nope.
Now as we approach harvest 2011, I have bottled the last of my reds. This year I chose to focus on only two; Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Why? The quality of red fruit last year was outstanding for these two varietals and my 2009 wine “warehouse” was still in good supply. If I don’t monitor the capacity of my cellar, I can end up with cases of wine scattered all over the basement.
So what’s the problem?
Good point.
At any rate, even with my self-control in check, I managed to produce some 360 bottles of red this year and they are poring nicely and will improve with age. Don’t get me wrong. Making wine in small six gallon carboys using oak chips rather than 60 gallon French oak barrels is not a recipe for producing world-class cult wine. Yet, these easy drinking reds are satisfying to make and satisfying to drink. One can’t ask much more from a bottle that costs about two dollars to produce.
My favorite of the two is the Cabernet Franc. This year I tried something I hadn’t done before…and is typically avoided by the pros. I co-fermented the Cab Franc with 25% Petit Verdot. Good decision.
Most professional winemakers produce their red wines by individual varietal and then blend them early in the ageing process, if a blended wine is their goal. Taking a contrarian tack, I blended the fresh, crushed red fruit together and commenced fermentation as a single cuvée. The Petit Verdot worked its magic and deepen the color, aroma and flavor of the Cab Franc. Based on the resulting wine, I intend to pursue a similar strategy this fall.
And how is this year’s Virginia grape crop shaping up? It’s been a lot of work for vineyard managers. Heavy rains early in the season, coupled with a hot and humid mid-summer, resulted in excessive vigor in the vineyard. Throw in the numerous fungi that love such conditions and workers in the vineyard have been very busy this year. Pruning, leaf pulling, and spraying have consumed much of their work schedule. Veraison occured a bit earlier than normal and whites such as Seyval Blanc and Pinto Gris were harvested as early as August 13 in some areas of the state.
Stink bugs have also reappeared in some vineyards but not at levels seen last year. As fall advances that could change. The little stinkers could leave their forest dwellings and cling to grape vines in abundance. This is a serious issue if they are harvested along with the gapes and crushed in the winemaking process. We do not need the aroma of stink bugs in our wines. All efforts will be taken to avoid this scenario, be assured.
Brown Marmorated Stink Bug
Over all, the quality of the crop this year is shaping up to be excellent. The one unknown element is the return of heavy rains. Particularly troublesome is a major hurricane or two that could cause our viticulturists to grab the Prozac. Let’s hope their emotional well being will not be tested. A stressed out vineyard manager is not a pretty sight. It can also turn a normally placid winemaker into a nail biting worry wart.
But this is Virginia. The classic Eurasian grapes were not intended to thrive here and it’s enormous achievement that our industry’s professionals are producing world class wines in a difficult climate.
And how do we know? Have you visited a local tasting room lately?
World’s Oldest Libation Is Newest Rage
It’s common knowledge among those who follow wine that the USA is hot. And we’re not talking global warming. Consumption is the function.
Two recent reports speak to what is unfolding in the United States of Winemerica. First, in 2010, we became the largest wine consuming nation on earth. Secondly, beer consumption is in decline, being driven by a younger, upscale crowd called millennials who are more eager to pull a cork than a pop top.
Added to these dramatic shifts in alcohol consumption, there’s been an explosion in the growth of wineries nationwide, further encouraging sipping rather than guzzling.
As of 2010, there were 7,626 bonded wineries scattered across every state in the union, with California being home to forty-four percent of them. Here in Virginia, we have passed the 200 mark and there doesn’t appear to be any easing up. Is this fun or what?
But let’s do the numbers. Wine consumption in the US climbed 2 percent last year to 329.7 million cases, generating $30 billion in retail sales. That compares with 320.6 million cases for France. While the French still hold the per-capita wine drinking title—USA’s 311 million population is five times that of France’s—our surging growth of younger wine drinkers and torrent of social media promoting the world’s oldest libation is having its impact.
An equally interesting counterpoint to America’s wine ascendency is the decline in wine drinking occurring in France, where consumption has dropped by three billion bottles in the last generation. There is a fear among French wine lovers that the culture of wine drinking is fading. Just 16.5 percent of French citizens are now regular wine drinkers. Sacre bleu, who knew?
One of the key drivers in our Nation’s interest in the fermented grape is the growing importance of wine with food. Lifestyle changes in the last few decades have created a dramatic interest in serving wine on social occasions, from family dinners to corporate grand banquets. Unconvinced? Note the reaction of your party hosts the next time you gift them a bottle of wine. It will be all smiles.
But is beer drinking really slacking off? Indeed. A July 2011 Gallup study surveyed 1,016 US adults revealing that 35% drank wine most often compared with 36% who favored beer and 23% who preferred liquor. It was the best showing for wine ever and the trend is likely to continue.
In January of this year, a Nielsen report revealed millennials are more likely to explore new and different alcoholic beverages. In the US, this means looking past the beer aisle. The trend toward experimentation bodes well for future wine sales.
One possible reason for the change in behavior is the marketing of beer for many years had a frat house slant, emphasizing goofy humor or young guys watching sports on TV. That’s not a demographic brewers are pursuing now. Today, you’ll likely view upscale couples enjoying a night out at a classy restaurant or outdoor activities such as cycling followed by a frosty brew that bears no connection to the image of partying good ol’ boys. Beer makers are following the dollar signs.
Whatever the causes of the shift to wine, it bodes well for the health of our citizens. Numerous studies have shown that moderate wine consumption produces a number of positive effects on our health and well being.
Ben Franklin summed it up nicely saying, “Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance.” Sounds like sending a bottle of wine to every Member of Congress might even improve our political discourse.
Published in the 2011 Winter edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Creating a Wine Society Gathers People Together You May Rarely See—Your Neighbors
In 2000, Robert Putnam penned a bestseller titled, Bowling Alone. The book explored how Americans have become increasingly disconnected with one another. Today his findings are still valid, notwithstanding the avalanche of social media.
Putnam’s tome—all 544 pages—centers on the deterioration of ways people have come to interact with one another over the past two generations. One small example is the number of Americans attending public meetings of any kind declined 40% over the last thirty-five years.
The book is packed with voluminous data showing how Americans have grown increasingly isolated, less empathetic toward their fellow citizens, angrier and less willing to unite in communities or as a Nation.
Sounds like a press release emanating from Capitol Hill.
To buck the trend, Putnam called for more educational programs, work-based initiatives and community service programs. But there’s another easy and enjoyable way to link with the locals. Share a bottle of wine.
Today in the United States, there are over 40 million wine drinkers. And in 2011, the United States assumed the title of the largest wine consuming nation on earth. So if you are looking for something you might have in common with folks in your neighborhood, reach for a corkscrew, a wine glass and a bottle of Cabernet.
This writer founded a community wine society back in 2005 and has held over thirty-three tastings since first sampling South African wines in a group setting. Since then, our posse has pursued the world of fine wine, evaluating bottles from almost every producing region in the world. Uh, we haven’t gotten to Chinese wines yet.
It’s been a rewarding experience. And while it’s been fun tasting all those great wines, deepening existing friendships and creating new ones has been even more satisfying.
Think you might not be up to hosting a wine tasting party? It’s easier than you might imagine. Here are some thoughts on establishing a local wine association; and dismiss any preconceived notions of its difficulty. Simply assume the mantle of its chairperson and success will follow. It’s a given your disciples will enjoy the experience because the social magic is in the wine. Your job is simply the facilitator.
No need to be an expert
Wine provides an endless opportunity to learn something new, so starting from a position of unfamiliarity can actually be an asset. It will be rare to find folks in your neighborhood who think they are experts. And if they aren’t pros, you needn’t be either. A love of wine, coupled with friendly people to drink it with, fulfills the basic requirements for forming a group. A wine society enables everyone to learn together.
Start Small
Your first meetings should be limited in size; eight to ten people makes for a good starter group. A bottle of wine holds 25.6 ounces, so five bottles will provide ten participants over two ounces of each selection, or about 13 ounces. You can provide the wines yourself or each couple can bring a bottle of their choice. The tasting can be a stand alone event or it can be the lead-in to a group dinner or bar-b-que. With the focus on wine, initial meetings might best be limited to just tasting. Expanding the format can come later. A selection of gourmet cheeses and crackers makes a nice accompaniment to the wine itself.
Our local wine society typically has twenty to twenty-two people at each meeting tasting some thirteen wines, or somewhat over half a bottle per person. As a group grows in size, two bottles per each selection will offer tasters the opportunity to sample more of each wine although less variety.
Levy a fee that reflects the cost of all the wine and food. You do not want to go broke. Avoid inexpensive wines readily available at the nearby grocery store. You’re goal is to expand everyone’s palate by tasting quality.
Rely on the pros
To select your wines, trust the guidance of a wine merchant. Describe your goals and ask for suggestions. Over time, your relationship with these pros may result in occasional discounts. A merchant who knows you will be buying quality wines on a regular basis will want to keep you as a customer.
Each session should have a focus—such as France, Italy, Chile or Virginia—and include both whites and reds, unless the group requests otherwise. Or, you could have a selection of wines from around the world. Large wine retailers often will be able to provide printouts on each bottle purchased describing the aroma, palate flavors and scores awarded by nationally known experts. Such information is helpful in sussing out the tastes of each wine.
Encourage discussion
As each wine is poured, elicit reactions from the attendees. Not everyone will feel comfortable commenting, especially if they think they know little about wine. But listening to the opinion of even the novice can provide insight. Initially, don’t be concerned with generating a host of detailed comments like, “A touch of pineapple with melon notes and a veil of citrus.” Such language can intimidate wine newbies. Descriptors like, “Smells great…is fruity…has a bite…smooth finish,” or simply, “I’d buy this one,” are easier to understand and can generate profitable discussion.
Your responsibility
As chairman of your society you will need some basic materials. Here’s a starter list.
Good quality wine glasses. These need not be expensive but an all purpose glass capable of bringing out the best in both white and red wines is important.
Sufficient seating. As your society expands, word will spread and you’ll receive additional requests to join, so extra seating will be needed. Choose a room large enough to place everyone in a circle. Lawn chairs and bar stools will do just fine as a group expands. Your members are not expecting to be seated in King Louis XIV chairs. Once the tasting begins, any concerns about the seating arrangements will evaporate along with the disappearing wine.
Decant the reds. About three hours prior to the event, open each red and pour it into a pitcher and repour it back into the bottle using a small funnel. This will enable the wines to open up and offer maximum aromas and flavors. The whites should be chilled but do not have to be opened till the tasting begins.
Scoring sheets for evaluating the wines. You will likely find some of the members may not want to score the wines. But at least two or three guests should make some attempt at rating each wine so you can select the “favorites” at the end of the evening. An excellent scoring format is the UC Davis 20 point system that awards points for appearance, aroma, palate, finish and overall impression. While this can get a bit techie, it is a valuable way to rate the total impact of each bottle.
Bowling alone may represent today’s isolated society but there is no need to drink alone. Many of your friends and neighbors will be pleased to receive a call or email announcing the formation of a neighborhood wine society.
Ben Franklin once said, “The discovery of a wine is of greater moment than the discovery of a constellation. The universe is full of stars.” Begin your personal discovery of wine stars and experience how it can enrich the lives of you and your companions.
Published in the 2011 winter edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Walker Elliott Rowe Published Two Books on Virginia Wine
Wandering through Virginia's Vineyards
For the better half of the last decade, Walker Elliott Rowe was a presence in Virginia wine. He wrote two popular books on the subject—Wandering through Virginia’s Vineyards and A History of Virginia Wines—and tended a vineyard on his Rappahannock County farm. But he has not been seen in the Old Dominion for awhile and no new wine books have been published. What gives?
It seems Rowe has reinvented himself and is now living in Santiago, Chile. This writer recently caught up with him via Skype—the software application that allows users to make voice calls over the Internet. We chatted for an hour as he sat in a Starbucks in Santiago. He discussed his new life and why Virginia wine was an enjoyable but past chapter on his literary journey.
From Virginia to Chile. How So?
Walker Elliot Rowe
In a word, employment. Chile’s economy is roaring along while America’s continues to struggle in recession-like doldrums. I grew weary of being laid off from one job after another. My former wife was from Ecuador and I speak Spanish so South America was always an attractive place to me. I no longer contribute to my Rosewood Hill Farm blog. I now write at Gringolandiasantiago.com on life in Chile.
Chile is known for its wine. Are you writing on the country’s vineyards?
Actually, I did write a book on Chilean wine back in 2005, Wine, Communism and Volcanoes. But today, my love affair with wine is limited to drinking it. I don’t intend to write on the subject again. My interests are wide-ranging and I felt I had fully explored not only Virginia wine, but the subject in general. I simply didn’t have anymore to say. Life moves on and so have I.
So what are you doing for a living?
I am a software engineer by vocation and currently working for a computer security firm with clients in the banking industry. We provide network protection to banking institutions. Business is good.
I still love writing and contribute material to the blog segment of the Santiago Times. The paper has given me license to write on any subject and I view myself as the paper’s essayist in the mold of Christopher Hitchens. I’m also researching my next book.
And the subject?
I have a degree in mathematics and have always been fascinated with the logic of mathematical proofs and deductive reasoning. I’m planning on writing a book on math for the lay person but will research it for few more years. Over the past year, I have been studying calculus with one of my two sons, both of whom still live in the states. I study everyday and have read ancient Greek mathematical texts and works on math by French, German and Swiss writers.
It all sounds a bit esoteric but the beauty and clarity of mathematics draws me to the subject. The challenge is to write a treatise that the average person will find engaging while simultaneously enlightening. It’s far removed from wine writing, although no less interesting to me.
So how does Santiago compare with Rappahannock County?
A History of Virginia Wines
They are both beautiful in different ways. In Virginia, I commuted to work in Northern Virginia and worked my farm in my spare time. It was a tough commute and a somewhat lonely life out on the farm. I simply grew tired of working one job after another with no consistent employment. Contracts came and went and as soon as a firm no longer needed your services you were sent packing. I do miss Rappahannock County’s beauty.
Here in Santiago the economy is vibrant. I am content with my current job and the stability it provides. But if I wanted to move to another company, the opportunity is there. Down here even savings accounts are earning four percent interest; that says a lot about the local economy.
Santiago is like living in New York City but with the climate of San Diego. It’s beautiful. I can go skiing in the Andes on a Saturday morning and the next afternoon be surfing in the Pacific Ocean. It’s an ultra modern city with great restaurants and cultural events. I even play soccer with my business colleagues. There is so much to do to keep a single guy happy. That was not the case on my Virginia farm.
Closing thoughts?
I’ve had an interesting life. I grew up in Georgetown, South Carolina, the son of a tug boat captain and farmer. My interest in farming dates to my youth and I played it out during my Virginia years. But for me, there is simply too much world to limit yourself with one endeavor. I am voracious reader and if something piques my interest, it’s everything I can do to control pursuing it.
Virginia was a satisfying time in my life. Now I’m having a wonderful time in Chile. My advice to everyone is to chase your dreams so the bucket list is empty when your time comes.
And to all my friends in the Old Dominion, come visit Santiago; either in person or via my blog. I will provide you with a real or virtual tour of this great city.
Published in the July 21, 2011 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Dentist From India Crafting Fine Wines in Amissville
Is there a doctor in the house? Indeed, and she’s likely to be found in the wine cellar. She may also be the only woman winemaker in America who hails from the Republic of India.
Dr. Sudha Patil, an endodontist—or root canal specialist—has over twenty-five years dental experience and is co-owner of Narmada Winery in Amissville, along with her husband Pandit. She currently practices dentistry in Culpeper three days a week and can be found making wine and greeting winery guests on her days off. It’s a demanding schedule driven by her love of children and wine. Pandit retired from the Department of Energy and is a part-time energy consultant.
Sudha’s dental practice focuses on young patients in financial need who are often underserved by conventional dentistry. “Money does not drive my professional goals. Working with children who have serious dental issues is gratifying,” says Sudha.
But wine has also been a source of enjoyment throughout the Patils marriage. Vacations often included visiting winemaking regions around the world. As their retirement years drew closer, the couple reflected on what second careers they would like to pursue. “Initially, we simply wanted to farm a vineyard. Pruning and caring for grapevines is a relaxing pastime that can produce income. But a few years after working with grapes, we realized making wine was the logical next step,” Sudha says.
Education & Labor
The story of the Patils embodies their commitment to education and hard work. Pandit received his college education in the states and then returned to India to seek a bride. “The first young lady I began seeing was Sudha and I looked no further. It was the best decision of my life. She’s a jewel,” Pandit emphasizes.
Sudha and Pandit Patil
But Sudha drove a bargain with her husband-to-be. “We knew the chemistry between us was right. But I asked him if he would put me through college and dental school. I had always wanted to be dentist,” Sudha explains. Pandit committed to fulfilling her dream and the newly weds moved to America.
Pandit went on to obtain his PhD but it was ten years and two children later before Sudah’s vision became a reality. She graduated from George Mason University and then Georgetown Dental School before receiving her Masters Degree in Endodontics from the University of Maryland. Within two years she had created a successful dental practice in McLean, Virginia. Five years ago, she relocated her office to Culpeper to be closer to their Rappahannock County home. The Patil’s have been residents of the Commonwealth of Virginia for 35 years.
The couple’s success extends to their offspring. The wine lovers have two children with successful careers of their own. Their son, Dr. Susheel Patil, is an Associate Professor at Johns Hopkins School of Medicine and practices pulmonary medicine and critical care. He conducts research in sleep apnea. He has two wonderful boys. Their daughter, Mrs. Prema Patil Sharma, holds a degree in chemical engineering from Virginia Tech and worked for an international drug development company. She currently serves as part-time Business Manager at the Winery and cares for her 19 month old son.
Sudha studied winemaking and vineyard management under Jim Law, one of the most respected winemakers on the East Coast and owner of Linden Vineyards. She made her first wines with Narmada’s estate grapes in 2008 at Barrel Oak Winery with the guidance of Tom Payette, their current wine consultant. Her wines include Vidal Blanc, Chardonel, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Chamboucin, Cabernet Sauvignon and others. Current production is 1,700 cases annually with an ultimate goal of 5,000 cases.
Sudha Patil
The Patil’s purchased their property in 1999 and planted their vineyard and a cherry tree orchard a few years later. In addition to grape wine, plans are to produce a cherry dessert fruit wine when the trees mature. The tasting room has an expansive, wraparound deck that overlooks the vineyard and a lake; wine and scenery are brought together to assure guests a relaxing environment. Their private residence sits on a gentle ridge at the back of the property with a sweeping view of the entire landscape.
Narmada Winery is a unique addition to the Virginia wine scene. It reflects what can be accomplished when talent and industry converge. Moreover, it showcases a heritage known for its beauty and artisan skills. America’s strength lies in its cultural diversity and now Virginia wine lovers have their own Star of India.
Narmada Winery is opened Thursday through Monday, 11am to 6pm. Learn more about their wines and special events at www.narmadawinery.com. (540) 937-8215.
Experience India…Taste Virginia.
Published in the June 30, 2011 edition of the Rappahannock News.
Growing Number of Commentators Mirror Growth of Industry
Little more than a decade ago, if you wanted an opinion about a bottle of wine you needed to consult a handful of nationally known publications or your local wine merchant. No longer.
Today, wine evaluation has become the domain of anyone with a blog and a desire to share their thoughts on the latest winery visited or wine consumed. Most blogs are interactive so visitors can comment on the author’s views.
But what exactly is a blog? It’s a blend of the words web & log and is essentially an online journal maintained by anyone with an interest in…anything. Given the inclination of folks to share their opinions, bloggers have exploded on the scene. In 2011, an estimated 156 million blogs were in existence worldwide. Today, there are over a thousand wine bloggers on the internet posting observations and reviews.
Given all this devotion to vinous products, one might assume wine lovers are hanging on every word bloggers write. Think again.
While there’s not a lot of research behind who is and who is not relying on wine blog advice, a British web site, Wine Intelligence, created a bit of controversy this past February by positing that its market research showed, “Bloggers are one of the least trusted sources of wine recommendations.” The report stated only 1 in 5 regular wine drinkers in the UK trusted what independent bloggers had to say about wine compared with 50% who trusted the advice of a wine merchant. In the United States, 80% of wine drinkers said they place their confidence in merchant recommendations.
Moreover, the online magazine Palate Press opines wine bloggers are failing to reach a meaningful size audience. It states the top 100 wine blogs in the Nation enjoy aggregate traffic of 865,000 unique visits a month, or about 30,000 hits a day. Sounds like a lot, yes? But consider that there are 40 million wine drinkers in the U.S. and at that level of activity even the most popular bloggers are reaching less than half a percent of their audience.
Having said that, some two-thirds of U.S. regular wine drinkers surveyed do seek information about wine online. Apparently, while individuals know the internet can be a valued source for gathering wine information, the conviction that bloggers can steer them in the right direction is low. Time might overcome some of this reticence as trust grows in the hardest working bloggers who are providing the most cogent and useful reviews.
Old Dominion Blogs
Here in Virginia, there are over twenty blogs devoted to critiquing Old Dominion wine. The growth of the phenomenon parallels the surge in wineries statewide, which now totals almost 200. Most of the blogs are journals in the truest sense since they share experiences about winery visits and wines. Typically such sites describe how the writers were treated by tasting room staff and their perception of the wines poured.
This is where Virginia bloggers provide significant value added. Their observations are not solely about wine but about the entire wine experience and are often accompanied with photos or videos. These oenophiles regularly navigate the highways and back roads of the Commonwealth evaluating everything wine related so the horde of weekend wine warriors can maximize their precious free time.
The merit of Virginia blogs may well be enhanced in the aggregate. If a wine lover is planning a day of winery hopping, a quick review of multiple web sites should paint a relatively accurate portrait of both the atmosphere and wines at any given establishment. By tracking the number of positive impressions, quality wineries can be identified and the information used as a handy itinerary planner.
So Why Blog?
In probing Virginia blogging, a few common observations emerge as to why people blog. For most authors—but not all—their work is an enjoyable hobby and a way to share their wine experiences. There is also a bit of vanity press involved; it’s undeniably fun to be “published” without an editor’s approval. Often the blogs are initially created to organize and document wine travels or simply as an outlet for creativity. Most bloggers do not consider themselves wine professionals but passionate and knowledgeable amateurs. If any income is derived from the work, it is modest and simply covers expenses; bloggers have full time jobs that pay the bills.
The free information scribes generate can come with a price tag. In the beginning, the gratification of attracting readers and exploring new subjects is stimulating. But as traffic grows, a blogger soon realizes if the site begins to gather cobwebs it will not gather readers. Our culture demands fresh and new everything. Todd Godbout, who writes at Wine Compass, summarizes it nicely when he says, “If you do not post; they will not come. And in addition to the writing, weekends are usually devoted to traveling in search of fresh material.”
Frank Morgan, writing at Drink What you Like, says, “Since this is purely a hobby for me, I feel no pressure to post new entries or make money.” Morgan, who works for an aerospace firm and travels 100,000 miles a year, uses a lot of his flight time to write. Notwithstanding his disclaimer of feeling little pressure, his site recently reflected eleven substantive entries over a two month period. A fair dollop of devotion is needed to hold down a full-time job and produce interest worthy blogs.
Most nationally known wine blogs typically publish at least three times a week and review thousands of wine a year. Loyal followers develop a “feed me” mentality that demands new content in exchange for readership, often at only modest remuneration for the wordsmiths. Morgan explains, however, “When I retire, I may consider a career in the wine industry. So in that sense, my hobby could ultimately reap a financial reward.”
Paul Armstrong at Virginia Wine Time reinforces that he and his partner Warren Richard, “… feel no pressure to write our blog even though we are posting two or three times a week. It is still fun for us. We do not write professionally so passion drives our keyboard. We have, however, scaled back a bit on winery visits because of the rising cost of gasoline.”
The married authors of Swirl, Sip, Snark, bill their blog as “The Best and Worst of Virginia Wine”, and keep readers updated on the state’s expanding industry sans rose-colored glasses. Since their observations can range from laudatory to critical they travel incognito and post their observations at a demanding pace of five times a week. “It’s an emotionally rewarding pastime but definitely a commitment. We find the interaction with our readers incredibly reinforcing and feel we’re building a virtual community. But to keep the dialogue going we must keep initiating the conversation. And if gas climbs much higher we’ll be forced to ease up. This is a hobby. The return on investment is supposed to be fun not expensive,” says one of the masked critics.
But for some it’s not just a hobby. Rick Collier and Nancy Bauer have created a unique web site called Virginia Wine in My Pocket. It’s both a blog and an “app”, or software application, and is the only iPhone and iPod Touch travel guide for everything wine in Virginia. The guide includes information on wineries, wine trails, B&Bs, dining, and GPS mapping.
As a modest money making endeavor, it comes with a commitment of some 25 hours a week just for their Virginia wine application. Crank in another 25 hours for other travel related apps they’ve created, and the couple clearly feels the pressure. Like many bloggers, Rick laments, “When a week goes by without a post, we get embarrassed and start to feel like slackers; especially in view of how prolific some Virginia bloggers are.”
But there are compensations. “It’s a lot of work keeping our wine app current. But traveling around Virginia wine country is better than writing the great American novel. It’s provided us a reason to explore the beauty of our state and get connected in a real way with the life cycle of a bottle of wine,” explains Nancy.
The blogger strikes again
This writer blogs at Hagarty-on-Wine and views it as a retirement hobby. After writing about wine for local newspapers, a friend suggested the articles be archived on a blog and offered to build the site at no cost. One possible downside for writers is the time spent in front of the computer researching and writing. Blogging can become a benign addiction that some spouses find a bit annoying. Around this household when the question is posed, “Are you back on the computer again?” it’s the signal to sign off and spend time in real-world conversation.
One of the common refrains heard by many bloggers is that anyone considering writing on wine needs to commit themselves to studying the topic. Writing only on Virginia offers the benefit of focusing on a subject near at hand; not an insignificant advantage considering that on any given day there are over 55,000 national and international wine selections for sale in the United States. Centering one’s attention on a single state takes a lot of work off a blogger’s radar screen.
As with any movement, like-minded individuals form groups. This July 22, in Charlottesville, hundreds of wine bloggers from around North America will descend on Thomas Jefferson’s home town for a three-day symposium. The event will focus on the intersection of wine with the world of blogging and social media. The fact Charlottesville was selected as the location for this major conference reflects the growing respect Virginia wine is garnering nationally. Individuals interested in learning more about the conference can visit Wine Bloggers Conference.
And if you’d like to take a peek at the Nation’s most popular blogs, visit Top 100 Wine Blogs. But caveat emptor. If writing a blog is addictive, reading them can become an obsession.
Here are Virginia’s current wine blogs; “current” being a relative term since new entrants seemingly appear monthly.
Published in the Summer 2011 edition of The Piedmont Virginian.
Impressive Rendition of Virginia’s Up and Coming Grape
The Wine
This past February, I posted an article on the potential for Petit Verdot becoming the Old Dominion’s star grape. I interviewed several of the state’s respected vintners who all agreed the berry was attracting the attention of a rising number of wine lovers.
Recently, I had the pleasure to again taste why this exotic wine is turning heads in the Commonwealth. Chateau O’Brien’s winemaker, Jason Murray, has created a gorgeously inky 100% Petit Verdot with aromas of layered black fruit and lush spice notes. On the palate black cherry with a veil of cinnamon and spice predominate, leading to an extended soft finish of silky tannins.
The wine was aged for 24 months in French Oak and has been moving out of the tasting room at a rapid clip. Proprietor Howard O’Brien advises limited quantities of the ’08 are still available. Otherwise, it will be a year before the 2009 effort will be released. I’d suggest you stop by the tasting room soon if you want to score a bottle.
The Food
A big, bold wine needs the comfort of a juicy steak, right? Yes, but. I love going against convention and found that Baked Dijon Wild Atlantic Salmon fillets were equal to bringing out the best in this smooth red. Why? First, the salmon was full bodied and favorable. But its depth was intensified with a glaze that included butter, Dijon mustard, honey, bread crumbs and chopped pecans. It was a classic example of a dish’s intensity being magnified by its ingredients. It was accompanied with spring asparagus.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup butter, melted
- 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
- 2 1/2 tablespoons honey
- 1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
- 1/4 cup finely chopped pecans
- 4 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
- 4 (4 ounce) fillets salmon
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 lemon, for garnish
Directions
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C).
- In a small bowl, stir together butter, mustard, and honey. Set aside. In another bowl, mix together bread crumbs, pecans, and parsley.
- Brush each salmon fillet lightly with honey mustard mixture, and sprinkle the tops of the fillets with the bread crumb mixture.
- Bake salmon 12 to 15 minutes in the preheated oven, or until it flakes easily with a fork. Season with salt and pepper, and garnish with a wedge of lemon.
Love of Wine is only the Start to Becoming a Member of this Elite Profession
You’ve spent ten minutes perusing the wine list at a high end restaurant and still can’t come to closure. Simply too many wines. So how do you easily select a bottle that will best accompany your party’s dinner?
Ask to see the sommelier. That is, if he—and increasingly she—hasn’t already visited your table.
A sommelier, say some-mel-yea, is a trained professional whose job includes selecting wines for a restaurant’s list and then managing the purchase, storage, sales and service of the inventory. At moderately priced restaurants, the wait staff often will serve as a wine guide, helping diners choose a bottle based on stated preferences. But the gap between a helpful waiter and a certified sommelier is Grand Canyon in size.
Whether the position is called wine manager, wine steward, director of wine or sommelier, the numero uno task of these pros is providing you the best advice on a wine that will take your dinner to the next level of enjoyment.
Sommelier is French for wine butler. The name dates to the middle ages and denoted a court official responsible for the transportation of supplies. Exactly how it morphed into wine expert is a bit vague as is often the case with language. Today, the meaning is unequivocal; a person who has their wine act together in the extreme. And if you are a Master Sommelier, the act is all Broadway, bright lights and applause.
So let’s flip roles for a moment and pull you out of your comfortable dining chair and place you in front of a couple eager to hear your cogent wine advice. What skills and training would provide you the authority to counsel a table on the merits of a 2003 Left Bank Bordeaux over a 1999 Chateauneuf-du-Pape?
First, you must have an acute ability to accurately smell and identify blind a host of foods and beverages—coupled with a gifted memory. Of course, this basic criteria has already eliminated the majority of possible candidates. But wait. Don’t sit down. For the sake of our exercise, we’re going to assume you possess both of these traits in abundance. It’s called raw talent and it’s waiting to take you to the next step on your sommelier journey.
With a love of wine and the physical attributes to suss out aromas and flavors from food and drink, you’ve decided to become a certified sommelier. And not just a run-of-the-mill one. Your goal is to become a Master. In other words, you want to be a wine rock star.
There are four levels of examination in becoming a Master. The exams are administered by the Court of Master Sommeliers in the United Kingdom and testing in held in both Europe and the United States. Levels I & II are courses with exams given after one and two day sessions and include a small blind tasting.
Level III is where the fun begins. The course requires three days of intensive lectures and tastings conducted by a team of Masters followed by a two day exam. It includes written theory on wine knowledge and a blind tasting of six wines using the Deductive Tasting format. So far so good. You’ve passed all three levels and there is nothing wrong with taking any of your certified ratings and going to work. But since center stage is calling you, the real challenge commences.
Level IV consists of three parts and can only be undertaken after passing the first three. The exam includes practical restaurant wine service and sales; detailed theory on serving of aperitifs, their ingredients and production methods; proper selection and use of stemware; menu content and pairing, and demonstrating a high degree of efficiency in serving wines, brandies, liqueurs and other spirits.
Part two requires the candidate to speak with authority on wine regions around the world; know the principal grape varieties; answer questions on international wine law; display expertise on fortified wines, beers, ciders, and cigar production, and understand the proper storing and serving of wine.
Part three involves the blind tasting of six different wines and identifying the grape variety, country of origin and vintage. This requirement by itself can often be a showstopper. “Wait a minute. Do you mean I need to say the wine I tasted was a 2004 French Northern Rhone Syrah?” Yep. Except you have to do it six times in a row with different wines.
The Court of Master Sommeliers Diploma was introduced in 1969 and only 171 people worldwide have been awarded the title in forty-two years. Today, there are 74 active Masters in the Americas and 25 in Europe. In February 2011, six of the newest members were welcomed into the ranks of this prestigious organization.
Listen to just one of the honorees, Anthony Anselmi, as he discusses his preparation for the test: “In the two months leading up to the exam, I did a blind tasting every day to hone my skills. When I learned that my exam was scheduled for 9am in Texas, I had to change my studying schedule accordingly. I woke up at 5am in California so that I could begin my practice tasting sessions at 7am sharp, so I would be properly prepared for the exam itself,” Anselmi explains.
The six professionals who were awarded the honors in Irving, Texas spent a collective thirty-five years in preparing for the exam. You can’t pull an all nighter with this test.
OK. By now you’ve realized you are unlikely to become a vino rock star and are permitted to return to your dining seat. In reality, it would be rare to even encounter one of these uber tasters at a restaurant because of the rarity of the title, so don’t take your failure too hard.
Whether practiced at the highest level or simply as a knowledgeable waiter providing straightforward advice, all of us can appreciate the skill and commitment of anyone trained to say with confidence something like, “I would recommend the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon.”
Our thanks to the experts.
Published in the 2011 winter edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
Virginia and International Wine Bar Comes to Brambleton Town Center
Wine sales in the United States are surging. Last year, the U.S. surpassed France as the world’s largest wine-consuming nation. Here in Virginia nearly 200 wineries are in operation, up from zero in 1974.
Sounds like a good time to get into the wine business, hey?
Michael Matthews and Michael Sawyers clearly think so. After nearly three years in the planning, the Virginia Wine Factory started uncorking bottles on May 27 at their tasting room in the Brambleton Town Center, Ashburn, Virginia. The extensive wine list will reflect the tastes of Northern Virginians by showcasing offerings from both the Old Dominion and points worldwide.
The entrepreneurs are engineers by trade. Matthews is a virtualization web architect and Sawyers a geotechnical expert. Both believe that Virginia wine is fast approaching the “tipping point” of national recognition.
The vision for their tasting bar is a comfortable—almost living room-like setting—where the best of the Commonwealth’s wines can be tasted alongside noted global producers. “The quality of Virginia wine has risen dramatically in the last decade. I think local wine lovers are going to be impressed when tasting Virginia side-by-side with other leading regions,” says Matthews. “We’ve worked hard to bring the best of Old Dominion wines to the Factory,” he explained.
And the gentleman does know quality. He planted his first vineyard in 2003 on Virginia’s central peninsula near Tappahannock. Shortly thereafter, he met Sawyers, a home winemaker whose passion equaled his own. “Our mutual love of wine led us to Michael’s basement a few weeks later and the collaboration produced our first wine, Isabel’s Revenge. Since we were full-time engineers, our nascent winery, Vino Curioso, was a small operation producing just a few hundred cases a year. We couldn’t afford a traditional tasting room so my mother offered us the use of a garage and an old spring house on her property in Winchester. The deal was if we cleaned it up, we could use it. We renovated and turned the spring house into the ‘World’s Smallest Tasting Room’,” says a smiling Sawyers.
It’s an apt description since the facility was all of 120 square feet in size. What wasn’t small, however, was the caliber of wines the men were producing. After Vino Curioso was launched, the pair began to connect with some of the leading names in Virginia wine. The industry is known for its camaraderie and willingness to share production and marketing advice among fellow winemakers. “We owe a lot to some of the best wine talent in Virginia. Now we hope to repay them by showing the greater Washington area what the state is achieving,” emphasizes Matthews.
Michael Matthews & Michael Sawyers
While he knows Virginia’s top tier wines are impressive, he also thinks many of the state’s producers are still honing their marketing skills to gain traction in the hyper-competitive world of wine sales. “Many Virginia wineries are tightly focused on producing a quality product. Where the industry could use some help is in developing a wider audience. The state supported Virginia Wine Board Marketing Office is fast tracking business development and the results are impressive. With the Virginia Wine Factory, we hope to further expand both Vino Curioso and Virginia wine sales,” says Matthews.
The Tasting Room
The enjoyment of wine is enhanced with the proper setting and food. The décor of the Virginia Wine Factory will be anything but “factory”. The name of the business was selected to emphasize the laser-like focus on wine. “We’re striving to create a warm and down-home atmosphere. A Brazilian wood floor and an impressive 22 foot hand-crafted tasting bar will be augmented with nooks and alcoves of chairs and couches, in addition to conventional dining tables. When guests stop by, we want them to enjoy the wines in a relaxed setting,” says Sawyers.
Light fare will be served, including gourmet soups, Panini sandwiches and similar foods suited to accompanying wine
The Wine List
There will be about fifty wines available on opening day, 25 Virginia offerings and some 25 selections from the other USA and international regions. The emphasis will be on wines that accompany food. Virginia wines will hail from around the state and include Tarara, White Hall, Rappahannock Cellars, Ingleside, Mont Fair, Jefferson, Virginia Wine Works, Blenheim and others. Additional wineries will be added over time. Various selections from California, New York, Washington and Oregon will round out the domestic list. Internationally, the focus will be on France, Spain, Italy, Australia, South Africa and other well-known regions.
The focus of the tasting format will be on wine “flights”; four to six wines in categories of white, red, bubbly, sweet, and others. They will be matched or contrasted with wines from various regions, or the same region by varietal. “Guests will select from flight menus or create their own flights. At any given time, we will have over forty open bottles of wines to taste. Wine vibrancy will be assured since we are employing state-of-the-art gassing systems to block oxygen from opened bottles. From the first taste to the last, all wines will display a ‘just opened’ freshness in the glass,” explains Matthews.
The flight format will be the center piece for tasting Virginia. “We really want to spotlight the state by positioning it with wines worldwide and have guests tell us how they stand up in ‘blind’ competition. The format will make the experience not only fun, but educational. For instance, a wine drinker can choose to taste four different Viogniers from around the globe; they will rate the wines and we will archive them in our online rating system. We’ll have all wines by the glass, bottle or available for shipping to family or friends,” says Matthews.
Michael Shaps
Michael Shaps, proprietor and nationally and internationally known winemaker at Virginia WineWorks says, “Michael Matthews is an imaginative and creative guy. He has developed a solid business concept at the Virginia Wine Factory. My personal experience is that anytime you position quality Virginia wines against the global competition they show exceptionally well. People are going to be impressed at what Matthews and Sawyers have created for Northern Virginia wine lovers.”
Once the Brambleton venture is up and running, the men will turn their focus to opening a 4,500 square foot urban winery in Gainesville. The expansion effort will house Vino Curioso’s own winemaking operations, creating a winery similar in feel to a city brew pub but located in the middle of thriving Northern Virginia. Their current portfolio of Vino Curioso wines in Brambleton will include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and their signature wines Chardontage and 954, a Bordeaux style blend.
The Virginia Wine Factory is located at 22855 Brambleton Plaza, Suite 104, in the Brambleton Town Center, Ashburn, VA. They are open seven days a week from 11am till 11pm. Visit them at VirginiaWineFactory.com. 703.542.5659
Published in the May 26, 2011 edition of the Loudoun Times-Mirror.
Creating Great Memories by Linking Two of Virginia’s Pastimes
With hundreds of miles of hiking trails and almost 200 wineries, Virginia offers a cornucopia of options for spending a day on the trail then rewarding yourself with a glass of wine.
Appalachian Trail
This year Shenandoah National Park, SNP, celebrates its 75th anniversary. On July 3, 1936, President Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the park, creating one of our more scenic national treasures. In the early years, the park was very popular, drawing large number of visitors, but attendance has dropped.
While each year over a million visitors still enjoy the park’s beauty, there’s been a decline in tourist traffic of over twenty-five percent in the last decade. Some posit the internet might be partially to blame. It’s conjectured the park could be having a hard time competing with videos games and social media that seem to generate more excitement among our younger citizens than the out-of-doors.
If true, it’s a pity. Not only are great memories being forfeited but that much needed commodity—exercise—is not being provided to a generation of Americans sorely in need of it.
The good news? Over 500 hundred miles of lightly travelled park trails await wine lovers out to enjoy another healthy habit in addition to drinking wine. While hikes such as Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon are still on everybody’s favorite list, dozens of other hikes are pathways to a peaceful walk in the woods.
The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, PATC, and the SNP are rich sources of information on what to do and where to go in the park. PATC’s web page identifies numerous hikes and sells a comprehensive set of maps and guidebooks to get you safely in and out of the mountains. But the club’s portfolio is not limited to park hiking. It also lists numerous hikes available throughout the state, many in flatlander country for those more eager to get to the tasting room than climbing a mountain.
Intersection of AT & Upper Thornton River Trails
If you choose to head to the high country, finding your way around SNP is simple. Its trail obelisks and blazed trees easily guide a hiker from trailhead to trail’s end. There are basically three color-coded trail blazes: white identifies the historic Appalachian Trail which runs 101 miles through the park; blue pinpoints side trails for hikers only; and yellow welcomes both hikers and horses. The park boundary is identified by red markers.
Since SNP encompasses a section of the Blue Ridge Mountains and runs north to south, starting at Front Royal and ending near Waynesboro, it acts as a backdrop to most of the wineries in Virginia. If hikers hit the trail by 10am and are back in their vino vans by mid-afternoon, visiting a couple of wineries on the way home is a snap, especially with most of the state’s wine cellars opened till 6pm on Saturdays and 5pm on Sundays.
The web site Virginia Wine provides information on every winery in the Old Dominion and enables ramblers to plan their visits. The site also features an events link listing numerous activities such as wine & food pairings, live music performances, barrel tastings and more.
So is it legal to pack so much fun into a single day? No convictions have been recorded. With the return of our glorious spring weather time’s a wasting. Head to the hills and recap the day’s events in your favorite tasting room.
Published in the 2011 Harvest edition of the Virginia Wine Gazette.
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Travel Away From Wine Country and Your Restaurant Selections Diminish
You’ve chosen the restaurant with care. After all, it’s an important occasion for your spouse or significant other, be it a birthday, anniversary or promotion celebration. You’ve also braced yourself for the cost of a bottle of fine wine to accompany your celebratory dinner. It will add a hefty amount to the final bill.
So here’s the question. You’re seated at your table, the subdued lighting frames the face of your companion who is waiting eagerly for the announcement of your wine selection and your server is poised with pen and pad. Would you order a bottle of Virginia wine?
It might well depend on where the restaurant is located.
The cost of enjoying wine with a restaurant meal is fraught with mixed emotions. Many restaurants charge up to three times their wholesale purchase price for a bottle. Wine is a valued source of income for dining establishments but shelling out hard earned cash for the same wine that is three or four times less expensive at your local wine shop can feel like a shakedown.
Perhaps more importantly, the evening’s success or failure could depend on you picking a winner. Select an indifferent wine and your unfortunate decision will be staring at you during the entire meal. How romantic.
But Virginia wine is increasingly being applauded for its quality and diversity. It can compete when positioned against wines from around the world. If given a chance.
Recently, this writer devoted a few days to chatting with sommeliers, wine buyers and restaurant managers at upscale establishments located in the Piedmont region of Virginia, the District of Columbia and suburban Maryland. And an interesting pattern emerged. As Virginia wine moves further from its birthplace, the lonelier it tends to get.
And that’s a shame. Because a vast number of the region’s diners are not getting a chance to experience Virginia wine when dining out.
Virginia Professionals Supportive
It’s instructive to start our restaurant tour in the heart of Virginia wine country. At Foti’s in Culpeper, owner Frank Maragos features one hundred wines on his list, including twenty state bottlings. “Many of our guests are out of state visitors and they are intrigued with the idea of Virginia wine and eager to try it. It can require what we call a ‘hand sell’—that is, describing the wine in some depth—because many people are not familiar with the state’s rising reputation. But it must be priced to sell. Anything above $50 a bottle and resistance sets in, he says.
Liza Kaiser, Dining Room Manager at the Hazel River Restaurant in Culpeper, echoes Maragos thoughts saying, “Virginia has a rich history and visitors and tourists want to experience local wines. We also feature farm to table cuisine and locally produced wines complement our fare. Fifty percent of our wine sales are Virginian.”
Rosalee Lysaght, Restaurant Manager at the Blue Rock Inn near Little Washington, has a list of sixty wines, ten of which are Virginia. “Many diners are curious about Virginia wines but still reserved. I think it’s because the wines are relatively new, unfamiliar, and in some cases expensive. It can be perceived as a gamble purchase compared with selecting a California wine. However, people are very receptive to Virginia wines by the glass. It provides an opportunity to evaluate the wine without the commitment of a bottle purchase,” she emphasizes.
Christopher Roberts, Manger at The Restaurant at Potowmack Farm in Lovettsville, has assembled seventy wines on his list, twelve of which are Virginia. “We have significant interest in local wines given our proximity to wine country. Virginia has a wide range of quality so I focus on the top tier wineries. The wines fit nicely into our locally produced meats and produce theme. And we price them competitively,” he says.
DC Diners Are Tougher Sell
As we cross the Beltway and head toward the Nation’s capital, the Virginia story begins to weaken. David Tomaselli, Manager at the Carlyle restaurant in Arlington states, “We have fifty selections on our list but no Virginia wines. In my two years here I can’t recall any request for them. While I enjoy Virginia wines myself, our guests don’t think Virginia when ordering. I think the state’s industry needs to do a better job of self-promoting. They need to get the word out to a broader audience about the rising quality.”
Jim Ross, Wine Buyer for The Prime Rib on K Street in DC says, “We have two hundred selections on our wine list but none from Virginia. Past experience has shown us they don’t sell. For whatever the reason our distributors never show us any offerings. I think Virginia could compete with other wine regions but I simply haven’t been exposed to many of them. There’s not a lot of interest in Virginia among our guests.”
Brent Kroll, Sommelier at The Oval Room on Connecticut Avenue, oversees two hundred selections on his list but only two are from Virginia. “Most wine regions have earned reputations for a single varietal such as Napa Cabernet, Oregon Pinot Noir or Washington State Rhones. Virginia is too diverse and needs to focus on its best grape, such as Viognier. Many diners simply don’t know what level of quality to expect if they order a Virginia wine. It’s taking a chance to buy it,” he cautions.
Min Kwon, Wine Director at Addies in Rockville, MD, manages a 127 bottle list with five selections from Virginia. “I find Virginia wines are of greater interest to people focused on locally grown fare. Otherwise, most diners ignore them. Hand selling is required and we simply don’t have the time for that type of sale. I think the state needs to generate more positive press coverage in magazines such as Wine Spectator to convince buyers to consider Virginia,” he says.
Steve Uhr, General Manager, J&G Steakhouse just a block from the White House, shepherds a wine list with 250 choices, six of which are Old Dominion bottlings. “Most DC restaurants have just a small placement of Virginia on their lists. I think the state could parallel Chile’s experience. For years, Chile had a quality issue and then things improved dramatically. Today, their wines generate a lot interest. Virginia’s quality is improving and our list reflects it. But the focus on quality must continue and awareness among wine drinkers must grow to produce greater sales,” he opines.
The Virginia Conundrum
In listening to wine professionals from upscale dining venues, its clear Virginia is advancing its cause but at a slow pace. There are many challenges for the industry and its limited production is one of them. With most wineries selling a majority of their wine in tasting rooms, there is little incentive to hire an expensive sales force to increase placement on high-end restaurant wine lists.
It’s also clear most distributors are not devoting significant time to showcasing the wines. Without a professional marketing organization touting your product, little other than personal experience or word of mouth will advance the cause of Virginia to a broader audience.
The good news in all of this? Virginia wine drinkers can be secure in the knowledge that the wines they know and love are readily available throughout the state.
Perhaps being a best kept secret is its own reward.
French-American Hybrid Grape Out Performs Itself
The Wine
Seyval Blanc is widely grown in the eastern United States and is credited with producing good wine long before the traditional European grapes put Virginia on the wine map. Nonetheless, it also has a reputation of creating wines a bit on the thin side. Not so with the recent release of Hume Vineyards 2010 Seyval.
The wine casts the expected pale straw hue in the glass but quickly telegraphs a serious offering with its aromatics. On the palate, the full-flavored white is redolent of honeysuckle, lemon and citrus notes with super bright acidity that is in complete harmony with the fruit. With warm weather upon us, this wine will generate a lot of smiles as it takes its position as the first offering on Hume’s current tasting sheet.
The Food
My wife Jean prepared a Tuna and Orzo Casserole that was a perfect match for this clean, crisp, and well-made white.
This tasty casserole is topped with fresh shredded Parmesan cheese before it’s baked. Serve with a tossed salad and warm baked bread or rolls.
Ingredients:
Preparation:
Cook the pasta in boiling salted water according to package directions.
In a large saucepan, heat butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and sliced green onions; saute, stirring, until onion is softened and mushrooms are browned. Stir in flour until blended into the butter. Gradually stir in the milk. Continue cooking, stirring, until the mixture is thickened. Add the tuna and cooked peas; stir in salt and pepper, to taste. Combine the sauce mixture and drained pasta until blended. Spoon into the prepared baking dish and top with Parmesan cheese. Bake at 350° for 25 to 30 minutes, or until lightly browned and hot.
Serves 4 to 6.
